The French have a phrase, “la rentrée”, that encompasses not
only our own “back to school”, but also the notion of returning to work post
Summer holiday.
How, having got back into the workaday routine, can we
recapture some of the freewheeling spirit of Summer? Well, in a phrase that I
am hoping will catch on, there’s a wine for that.
It’s a well-known phenomenon that the “best wine you’ve ever
tasted” amid the azure skies and limpid seas of holiday, will magically turn to
dull and ho hum when drunk back in the land of the 9-5 and everyday worries.
But here are some wines from holiday destinations, tried and tested in
laboratory (well, deepest Surrey) conditions, which can give you a reminder of
sunnier days and still work their magic back on home soil.
Barbadillo Solear
Manzanilla – on offer at £7.49 a bottle until 20 September at Waitrose
I wrote recently that dry Fino and Manzanilla sherries are
one of my favourite summer drinks, so I heartily recommend having a bottle of
this in the fridge. Fresh, very dry and with a hint of nuttiness and of
ozone-y sea air, this is a wonderful aperitif style. Try it with salted almonds
or with gazpacho on a sunny weekend lunch.
Hatzidakis Santorini
Assyrtiko - £12.99 from Waitrose
This little piece of Greece from the Island of Santorini is
surely the epitome of summer. Assyrtiko is a native Greek variety that reaches
its apogee on the arid, volcanic soils of Santorini. Grapefruit acidity
combines with a juicy stone fruitiness and a whiff of pumice stone to create a flavourful,
refreshing mouthful, with wonderful texture. Anything involving seafood, olive
oil and garlic will shine with this.
Cune Barrel Fermented
Rioja Blanco 2015 - £10.49 from Waitrose; Tanners have the 2014 for £10.30
We mostly think of Rioja as a red wine-producing region –
but a warming, oaky red doesn’t quite strike the sunny note we’re after here.
White Rioja is less well known, but it is a great style for easing from Summer
to Autumn. The flavours are fresh with yellow/green plum fruit, but also some
weight and body, as well as spice from the oak fermentation and ageing. This
will stand up well to roast or barbecued chicken.
Whispering Angel 2015
- £15.99 (as part of mixed case of 6 – single bottle £19) from The Wine
Reserve, Cobham; £15 (if buying 6 or more – single bottle £16.99) from Taurus
Wines, Bramley
Rosé has an almost magical property – it can make any
glimpse of sun, no matter how fleeting, feel instantly summery. Whispering Angel is beautifully pale and
delicate, but with lovely, slightly herbal flavour and real persistence. Try it
with the last of the summer salads, especially if tomatoes are involved.
Feudo di Santa Tresa Frappato
Terre Siciliane IGP 2015 - £9.95 from
organic specialists Vintage Roots
A perhaps surprisingly fresh, light and delicate red from
Sicily, made from the native Frappato variety. With its light body and cherry
fruit yet still food-friendly dryness, it is renowned locally as the perfect
red wine for fish, and who am I to disagree? If you get a late summer hot day,
it will take well to chilling.
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