The
whiff of Catherine wheels, rockets and bonfires in the night air has
faded. Children have long since consumed their body weight in
Hallowe'en (trick or) treats. The last hurrahs of Autumn have passed
and now we stand at the top of a precipitous slope, like an alpine
ski jumper, nervously adjusting our goggles as we contemplate that
impossibly steep and slippery descent which leads inexorably
to...Christmas.
We all
hope for a steady run as we hop on to the festive ski jump: crowded,
stuffy shops successfully negotiated, presents bought, no-one
forgotten, meals planned, wrapping paper remembered. If we get it
all right it will culminate in a graceful landing on the big day
itself, having overcome the seemingly impossible.
That's
the dream. The nightmare is a wobbly start to our descent: online
ordering deadlines missed, the things you wanted sold out, or maybe
you haven't got any good ideas to start with; somehow, ordering the
turkey slipped your mind.....
The
nightmare result is less like an eagle soaring effortlessly through
the sky, and more like Eddie the Eagle.
Eddie,
lest you have forgotten, was a British downhill skier who had failed
to qualify for the British Olympic ski-ing team. He alighted on the
clever tactic of switching to ski jumping, where he was assured of
qualification, as there were no other British competitors.
Eddie
thereby found himself representing his country at the 1988 Winter
Olympics in Calgary, but was woefully under-financed and
under-prepared - at one point financing himself as a part-time
plasterer while training in Finland. Matters were not helped by the
fact that he suffered from such poor sight that he needed to wear
glasses to jump – which fogged up in the cold conditions. Dubbed
“Mr Magoo”, he resembled, not an eagle, but something more akin
to a penguin which had been launched unexpectedly into the air, and
then crash-landed and scrambled onto the ice. Eddie denied that he
was scared of heights – but he did admit to being scared of
jumping.
Despite
this unpromising start, Eddie, undaunted, won international acclaim
for his pluck and determination to compete. Unfortunately that was
all he won, as he came last in both of the ski jump events – and
thus the legend of Eddie the Eagle was born.
I may
not have much to offer to help you with the myriad of organisational
tasks that need to be accomplished between now and the end of
December – but in matters vinous I can be of assistance. Over the
next couple of columns I'll be making specific recommendations on
which wines to have on hand for the variety of social occasions that
the festive season brings, along with my top tips for a glittering
Christmas.
So as
far as what on earth to buy for the spouse who has everything, or
that sourpuss in-law who never seems happy, no matter how much money
and effort you expend – I'll have to leave you to your own devices.
However, if you can start by welcoming all your guests with a glass
of something cold and sparkling and flashing a winning smile, then
any other imperfections will surely be forgiven. Just don't forget
to order the turkey.
In the
meantime, here are some wines deserving of your attention. This
week's wine recommendations are not specifically Christmassy, but are
designed to soothe and delight over the colder, longer evenings
between now and December.
Bordière
Nord Marsanne Viognier 2010 - £6.99 (or buy 2 for £5.99 each) at
Majestic
Marsanne
and Viognier are traditional grapes of the Rhône
Valley, but have been transplanted here to the warmer Languedoc by
the mercurial Alain Grignon. This is a great value winter weight
white with bags of unoaked tropical-tinged peachy fruit, combined
with a herbal twist courtesy of the Marsanne. Full-tasting and
warming – great as a party wine, but the trace of herbal bitterness
makes it food-friendly too.
Domaines
Schlumberger Riesling Grand Cru Saering 2007 - £18.95 from
slurp.co.uk
I'm
not going to beat around the bush. It's time wine drinkers got over
their unfounded fears of Riesling, and especially of Riesling in
these tall “flute” shape bottles. This is a fantastic wine from
Alsace, in northeastern France, and it's DRY. Winemakers who can
grow it love Riesling, the wine trade loves Riesling, I love Riesling
– please put a stop to all my banging on and try some!
This sprightly wine has
lots of lime with a hint of peach and even a little orange rind on
the nose. The palate is dry, with a lip-smacking mineral tang and
the limey flavours really linger. It's quite weighty and with a
citrus pith bitterness too – really should be had with food and it
was great with a chicken risotto. Very good and totally, deliciously
moreish.
M&S
Crozes-Hermitage 2008 - £10.99 from M&S
This 100% Syrah from
the northern Rhône valley is made for M&S by the quality-minded
Cave de Tain Co-operative and is exactly the kind of red wine you
want to relax with at this time of year. The nose has loads of black
fruit, along with some herbs and spices. The palate has more of that
lovely brambly fruit with a real black pepper kick. Have it with a
winter casserole – or just by the fire, with slippers.
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