I claim there ain’t
Another Saint
As great as Valentine.
-
Ogden Nash
Here we are on that day of the year about which I have mixed
feelings: Valentine’s Day, when we are
all supposed to toe the love line and demonstrate our devotion to our loved
one. Now who am I to pooh-pooh the notion of a day given over to romance? But
the idea that millions, nay billions, of us should all feel the lurve, to order,
on 14th February every year induces a certain sullen bolshiness in
me.
Romance is dead – it was acquired in a hostile takeover by Hallmark and
Disney, homogenized and sold off piece by piece.
-
Lisa
Simpson, The Simpsons
And have you seen the Valentine-themed merchandising?
At a local convenience store I spied such treasures as fake
sparkly single red roses (sensible, can be re-used), red heart bunting to adorn
your love nest (bit OTT and actually a bit scary) and, bafflingly, packs of
twenty heart-shaped napkins. Twenty napkins? I didn’t realise Valentine’s Day
was a group activity. Have I missed something? Are we supposed to throw
Valentine’s parties nowadays, or are they designed for mopping up extravagant food
and drink spillages without breaking the romantic spell by having to make a
grab for the kitchen roll?
If you have made no particular preparations for your night
of romance please do not pick up a card, flowers and a bottle of rosé from the
garage on the way home. Nothing says “meh” like forecourt flowers and petrol
stations are not renowned for their classy wine choices. Better to go home
empty-handed than to bring home gifts that scream zero effort.
Better still is to spend a couple of minutes at your desk
researching your options before setting off for home. The best shortcut to celebration
is Champagne (I would say that wouldn’t I), though at this late stage you are
not in a position to go chasing after a particular grower’s exclusive cuvée.
However, there is equally no need to grab a bottle of anything that sports the
name Champagne from a gondola end in the nearest supermarket.
May I respectfully point you towards a site called Bring a
Bottle (www.bringabottle.co.uk),
which provides useful information on where to pick up most of the Champagne
grandes marques at the best price from major retailers. My eye was drawn to
Bollinger Special Cuvée Rosé NV at £36.99 from Waitrose (hint, hint). One of
the things I particularly like about the Bring a Bottle site is that it
includes a handy graphic, illustrating price movements over previous weeks for
your chosen Champagne – so you can tell whether the best price on offer really
is a good deal, or whether you are just getting the going rate. “My” Bollinger
Rosé has been pretty consistently available at an average of just under £39, so
I’m happy that the Waitrose offer is worth taking up, albeit not a tremendous
bargain either.
Other Champagne brands have far more volatile pricing –
Veuve Clicquot NV, for example, which frequently varies from between £27 to £35
a bottle. If this is your Champagne of choice, you’d be well advised to wait
until the price dips below £30 before buying. The Bring a Bottle site allows
you set up an email alert which will advise you when a particular wine drops
below its current lowest available price.
If you have more time available to winkle out your chosen
bottle then a virtual trip to www.wine-searcher.com allows you to search across a wider range of
suppliers, including many independent merchants who also mostly now offer
online ordering. This is often the best way to find the keenest price for any
particular wine that you are after.
Pink fizz seems to be de rigueur for Valentine’s Day and it
will no doubt not have escaped your notice that you have to shell out more for
the rosé version of a house’s Champagne. Viz, Bollinger Special Cuvée is
currently £32 at Asda, £32.49 at Sainsbury’s and Waitrose, compared to the
lowest price for the rosé of £36.99. It would be a churlish valentine who would
turn their nose and Champagne flute up at “merely” the Bollinger Special Cuvée,
surely.
If you really want to show that you know your stuff, THE pink
fizz of the Champagne cognoscenti is the delicate, understated and
food-friendly Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé – though at around £50 a bottle
currently it is not a bargain. Another favourite is Laurent-Perrier Brut Rosé
(prices range from £44 to a frankly ridiculous £58), which has more overt red
fruit and can be happily sipped on its own.
Do chocolates and Champagne mix? In any objective way, of
course not. Champagne lacks the body and sweetness (even the sweeter, demi-sec
styles) to stand up to the mouth coating sweetness and richness of chocolate. Putting
them together is flattering neither to the Champagne nor the chocolates. If you
want a wine to match with a box of chocs, then a rich old Oloroso sherry would
be a far better choice. But there is undoubtedly something decadent and
endearingly batty about showering your loved one in luxury items, whether they
should ever be consumed together or not.
And a final piece of advice if you’re thinking of buying
something for your female Valentine to wear, remember that, in the words of
Dorothy Parker, “Brevity is the soul of lingerie.”
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