Do you read this, with a passing interest in the content
(“Oh, tasting wine from Turkey this week.”) and then revert to your regular
tipple of Pinot Grigio/New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc or Rioja next time you buy
wine? It’s not at all a criticism, I am
genuinely interested to know if anyone out there is really encouraged to try
something new by anything that I might write about.
This is probably prompted by my own efforts to get out of a
culinary rut (yes, by buying a couple of new cookery books) and making the food
I dish up for my family less predictable – and (gasp) less reliant on
meat. I’ve been scouring the shelves of
the supermarket in sections that I normally eschew as fit only for cranks who
think they have “intolerances” to everything,
in search of new wave grains:
farro, quinoa, bulgur, giant couscous, Camargue red rice - all have been
given shelf space in my food cupboards.
Some have even made it to the table, with mixed reactions from the rest
of the family. However, I am still (at this
early stage at least) optimistic that we will find some new dishes that we all
take to our hearts.
Enough about my own domestic preoccupations, and onto what
should be the primary concern of this column.
At this time of year, you are no doubt expecting wine recommendations
for alfresco dining. Has anyone EVER
actually said that outside the world of journalism? “Hello darling, I thought we’d dine al fresco
this evening.” Your other half would
think you’d hit the Prosecco early doors.
No matter, here are some recommendations for summer drinking
(indoors or out) that I hope might encourage you to depart from the tried and
tested and to strike out in search of glasses new.
Grüner Veltliner
If you count yourself a Sauvignon Blanc fan, then I urge you
to seek out this grape. It’s a
speciality of Austria and has plenty of zingy and zesty grapefruit-tinged
fruit, with often more body and personality than many Sauvignon Blancs. You might be interested to know that New
Zealand wine growers have taken up the variety and are starting to produce
their own versions. It’s still early
days, but look out for Kiwi Grüner in years to come.
Laurenz V. Forbidden
Grüner 2011, £11.99 from morrisonscellar.com
This is a hugely unfashionable style – light, fresh, a bit
of natural sweetness and with low alcohol (11%). But this is exactly the sort of wine that, if
it’s put in your hand, I bet many of you would enjoy. Bursting with fresh lime and grapefruit, and
yes, a touch of sweetness, but the finish is clean as a whistle thanks to a
bright streak of acidity. This will
cheer up even the greyest summer’s day.
Drier and higher in alcohol, this is a satisfyingly tangy
and refreshing wine, which has nothing skinny about it – perfect for what
passes for summer weather nowadays.
Australian Riesling
Here I go again:
Riesling, Riesling, Riesling.
Will I never tire of banging on about this variety? The short answer is no – not until I’ve
convinced you all to love it as much as I do.
If the idea of sweet Riesling is too scary, then stick with
Aussie versions which are reliably dry.
Plantagenet Great
Southern Riesling 2010 - £13.50 from The Wine Society, £13.99 from
morrisonscellar.com
I served this blind at a tasting recently (see what you
Riesling haters have made me resort to) and many people loved the wine but were
convinced it couldn’t be Riesling, which they were sure would be sweet and
nasty and not bursting with zesty, waxy
lime fruit and resolutely dry. Most
guests thought it was Sauvignon Blanc (not sure whether to laugh or cry about
that). Need I say more?
Paulett’s Riesling,
Polish Hill River, Clare Valley - £13.74 or £10.99 if you buy 2 bottles at
Majestic
Despite the mangled name (is it from a river or a hill, it
can’t be both) I have long admired this wine for its classic Clare Valley
Riesling style – elegant lime and lime blossom fruit.
English fizz
The grape varieties may be nothing new, usually consisting
of the classic Champagne trio of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, but
the style is English all the way. Our
home-produced sparkling wines have yet again shown their quality by bagging
medals at the major international wine competitions this year.
Gusbourne Estate – wines
from £24.99 to £29.99 online at gusbourne.com and some independents
This newish producer in Kent managed to take home gold
medals in each of the “big 3” competitions (International Wine Challenge,
Decanter World Wine Awards and the International Wine and Spirit Competition)
this year – a stunning achievement.
Ridgeview Bloomsbury
2010 - £24.99 from Waitrose
For my money Ridgeview are the most consistent producer of
high quality English sparkling wine across their range, though they failed to
bag any medals at the big three competitions.
Like Spurs, there may be no silverware in the trophy cabinet this year,
but they are undoubtedly a class act.
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