We all think we know what to expect from Vinho Verde. It's a white wine from northern Portugal that is bracing in its acidity, very light bodied and usually with a hint of soluble aspirin spritz about it.
Well
you and I both know that this would be a very short article if that
were the case. I would simply usher you onto the next page with a
“Move along people, nothing to see here...”
Therefore
it will come as no surprise whatsoever that there is more to Vinho
Verde than something that resembles lightly alcoholic, slightly flat
mineral water.
For a
start, Vinho Verde can be red (or rosé, or indeed sparkling). The
name refers to the region, rather than describing the wine. So it's
the vast expanse of verdant, not to say rain-soaked, vineyards in
this chunk of northwest Portugal which are green, rather than any of
the wines which emanate from them.
The
vine in its natural state originally evolved to scramble up trees,
and in Vinho Verde vines were traditionally allowed to grow this way,
either twining through branches or along wires strung between the
trees. This makes pruning the vines and picking the grapes a
time-consuming – and even dangerous – process. You certainly
need a head for heights. And a very long ladder.
Most
vines nowadays are more commonly trained along wires at a more
picker-friendly height, so the vineyards look much like any other
across the world. The wines themselves, however, maintain a
delightful individuality, with a style all of their own. Not least
among their charms is a tendency to low alcohol – many of these
wines are just 11 or 11.5% - perfect for a lunchtime glass.
Traditional
styles of Vinho Verde
Quinta
da Aveleda 2010 - £7.25 from www.drinkfinder.co.uk
A
classic mix of traditional varieties make up this textbook example of
white Vinho Verde: Loureiro, Trajadura and Alvarinho. It has a
mineral, iodine nose, redolent of the sea. There is a definite
spritz on the palate and very crisp acidity, but plenty of flavour
too and a touch of soluble aspirin on the finish. Very fresh, very
individual.
Quinta
da Lixa 2010 - £8.99 from www.averys.com
In a
similar vein to the Aveleda, though it has a softer feel in the
mouth. There is less driving acidity and rather more fruit, making
for a gentler and less uncompromising wine.
Modern
styles
Quinta
de Gomariz 2010 - £9.99 (mixed case price) from The Wine Reserve in
Cobham
Rather
than blending, this producer makes several wines, each made from a
single traditional variety. The Wine Reserve stocks their Loureiro,
which has an intensely floral scent, verging on violets. The palate
has Vinho Verde's hallmark crisp acidity, citrussy fruit - and only
11.5% alcohol. While you're there, you might be talked into trying
the Gomariz rosé and red, which they also stock.
If you
get the chance, look out this producer's single varietal Avesso, a
variety that you'll rarely see unblended. The nose is bracing, like
a breath of sea air. The palate has a lovely weight of rich, citrus
fruit, with a hint of citrus pith bitterness too.
Quinta
do Soalheiro 2010 - £13.95 from The Wine Society
Fourteen
quid for a Vinho Verde? Here's a quick lesson in wine geography and
how to spot a bargain. Just across Portugal's northern border is the
Spanish region of Galicia, which is renowned for its white wines made
from the Albariño grape. Famously a seafood wine par excellence,
you'll be lucky to find a good one for under £15 in this country.
The
same variety, back in Portugal, is known as Alvarinho and is a
familiar grape in many a Vinho Verde blend. Some producers are now
wanting to highlight the star qualities of the variety by making a
pure Alvarinho Vinho Verde – but pound for pound, you get a lot
more quality for your money on the Portuguese side of the border.
The
Soalheiro has a pure, mineral nose. The palate is quite weighty and
there is not even a hint of spritz. What impresses most is that it
manages to strike a wonderful balance between the abundant ripe fruit
and lip-smacking freshness, making for a serious, yet lively wine: a
beguiling combination.
For
daredevils
Afros
2010 - £8.82 from Les Caves de Pyrène, Guildford
A red
Vinho Verde (I did promise they existed) which will certainly pique
the interest of adventurous wine lovers. It's an uncompromising sort
of wine, which has to be experienced – though I can't promise that
most people will enjoy it. The dark-fleshed Vinhão
grapes make for an intensely-coloured, deep purple-to-ruby wine.
There's an initial big hit of full-on, sour fruit, the tannins are
low, but there is something very green and grippy at the back of the
palate. Tight acidity provides the structure and a slightly
unexpected (but pleasant) perfume emerges on the finish. You might
not be surprised to know that this wine is biodynamic. Caves de
Pyrène also stock Afros' rather more mainstream white Vinho Verde.
Doesn't
sound like your cup of tea? Come on, it's only a bottle of wine and
wouldn't life be boring if they all tasted the same?
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