tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-61999187911097792002024-02-19T01:54:45.599-08:00Liquid assetsWine columns by Heather DoughertyHeather Doughertyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11992050309481244224noreply@blogger.comBlogger188125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6199918791109779200.post-58328845752100186342017-09-01T02:17:00.000-07:002017-09-01T02:17:15.486-07:00Sherry in September<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Pinch, punch, first of the month – no returns!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">August, which should be the height of our summer has been a
disappointment. I don’t think I’m imagining it, as my BBC weather sources tell
me that August is on average the wettest of the summer months – and this year
has been particularly wet in the Southeast.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">So definitely no returns for this August just past – roll on
September, which often brings better weather and, in our garden at least, the
best of the season’s tomatoes. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ442yW6VLk7SNB6u7aSpAe6mV3mWAaeZkd01Cmc-q6JANjT07JtJ_DJo7hiiSGLpk3Eap7sGs5EyYfPV8DkYlbaKlmjg5UQm5pvRMefgrieQTgpw6z6DEnA4UB9uS2aODrF89FuMwiSc/s1600/IMG_20170831_100507195.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ442yW6VLk7SNB6u7aSpAe6mV3mWAaeZkd01Cmc-q6JANjT07JtJ_DJo7hiiSGLpk3Eap7sGs5EyYfPV8DkYlbaKlmjg5UQm5pvRMefgrieQTgpw6z6DEnA4UB9uS2aODrF89FuMwiSc/s320/IMG_20170831_100507195.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Sherry is a brilliant accompaniment to all sorts of tomato
salads, including the liquid salad that is gazpacho. Enjoy the fruits of the
season on a sunny afternoon with a glass of ice cold dry Sherry – this en rama
style of Manzanilla is fine, dry and concentrated, with a really pronounced
tang, redolent of the sea, which sets off the sweet ripeness of the tomatoes
perfectly. There’s also quite a bit of savoury umami in both the ripe tomato
and the Sherry - indeed this umami character is the key to what makes Sherry
such a great food wine all round.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Sweeter styles of sherry are also brilliant for providing
summer central heating after a soggy British summer day – I never go camping
without a bottle of rich Oloroso or rich cream Sherry on board. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><i>Sacristia AB Manzanilla Primera Saca 2016 - £18 for a half
bottle from Lay & Wheeler</i></span><o:p></o:p></div>
Heather Doughertyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11992050309481244224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6199918791109779200.post-49290224579844407502017-08-31T04:56:00.000-07:002017-08-31T04:56:38.803-07:00Loire wines: made for sunny weather<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">A recent trip to the Loire has reminded me what a brilliant
area it is for summer drinking. For a couple of days in mid-July temperatures
around the Loire hit almost 40°C – days when I and a group of fellow
wine educators were driving around the region in a minibus with no air
conditioning. Never have I been so keen to explore producers’ cellars.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">And yet, in all that heat, the wines we tasted offered fresh
fruit flavours offering plenty of refreshment – yes, even the red wines, which were
universally served fridge cold.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The Loire appeals to my greedy side, as the collection of
regions make a wide variety of wine styles, encompassing sparkling wines, rosés,
whites from bone dry to lusciously sweet and those refreshing reds. You can see
why Loire wines would be my Desert Island Discs luxury can’t you? <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">What to look out for? The 2015 vintage was warm, resulting
in some super-ripe wines. The excellent 2016 vintage is available now and is
what you should look for if refreshment is what you’re after. The Wine Society
is running an offer on a range of 2016s until 10<sup>th</sup> September,
including this juicy red.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4xQznt8_bW9IJZDOQ10yBdeaPNpqACn_Q15TSAZhezFYg7i0TYp7yda8DtuVs0nIxANdGHvTxBinxT1KDM_c-gbq7oeUJtp_xlvYs18LBvVO-2GpQQ1iRYA6aw6u2mtHYKRWTZShPZFE/s1600/IMG_20170816_184817775_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4xQznt8_bW9IJZDOQ10yBdeaPNpqACn_Q15TSAZhezFYg7i0TYp7yda8DtuVs0nIxANdGHvTxBinxT1KDM_c-gbq7oeUJtp_xlvYs18LBvVO-2GpQQ1iRYA6aw6u2mtHYKRWTZShPZFE/s320/IMG_20170816_184817775_HDR.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Touraine Rouge “Le
Bécassou” Domaine des Echardières 2016 - £8.95 from The Wine Society<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I would save this for a sunny weekend lunch and serve it
slightly chilled (I don’t think we’re in danger of anything approaching 40°
for a while). Its crisp cherry fruit is great with cured meats and rubs along
well with the kind of picnic style lunch that you can eat indoors or out,
depending on the weather. Touraine reds are often made from Gamay (the
Beaujolais grape), which can come as something of a surprise. Here it’s topped
up some Cabernet Franc and Malbec to give extra structure and fruit definition.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
Heather Doughertyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11992050309481244224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6199918791109779200.post-79684043721329923082017-03-15T10:13:00.000-07:002017-03-15T10:13:51.269-07:00Is Alto Adige a pointless wine region?<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">If I were to appear on Pointless and the category was
Italian wine regions, I’d be quietly confident that Alto Adige would be a
pointless answer.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Italy is home to many renowned wine names – Chianti,
Brunello, Barolo, Soave, Valpolicella... But there are plenty more where that
came from. Italy vies with France as the biggest producer of wine in the world
and is the source of more indigenous grape varieties than anywhere else: the
learned tome, Wine Grapes, lists Italy as the origin of 377 varieties (ahead of
France on 204). <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">In short, there’s always something new to discover in Italy
and becoming an expert in its wines is truly a life’s work. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Tucked up into the Dolomites in the far north of Italy, Alto
Adige is a region of intriguing clashes of culture, climate and language. The
fact that it is also known as Südtirol, and that German, rather than
Italian, is more often the first language are pointers that this area was,
until the First World War, part of the Austrian Empire. Mussolini encouraged
immigration from the south, in an attempt to “Italianise” the region, but met
with resistance.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZtz4OZ6n4dtIGFs5ZJmxpKg0igg_ILYBr1pTurf710Q58R1KHutDLGgqoxq8ZUdAP9Z8NFc0l7GfDJzZx6T0b7nbF_s-r9iVeFZF2OXJt_m1pyM1i62K1bMCSThgR80-2s5Seys75grI/s1600/pergolas+on+steep+hillside+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="190" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZtz4OZ6n4dtIGFs5ZJmxpKg0igg_ILYBr1pTurf710Q58R1KHutDLGgqoxq8ZUdAP9Z8NFc0l7GfDJzZx6T0b7nbF_s-r9iVeFZF2OXJt_m1pyM1i62K1bMCSThgR80-2s5Seys75grI/s320/pergolas+on+steep+hillside+2.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">trellised vines march down the mountainsides</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The surrounding snow-capped mountains provide a novel
backdrop not just to terraces of vines, but also to the palm and fig trees that
grow there. We may be in the far north, with ski-ing the main winter activity,
yet Bolzano, the capital of the region, can sometimes be the hottest city in
the country in the summer. Its steep, terraced hillsides make some of the most
exquisite wines from the Italian peninsula, while the flat valley floor is home
to industrial-scale orchards churning out Pink Lady apples by the tonne. Alto
Adige is a region that confounds and intrigues at every turn.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGtbtb7szTn0KlZWncx2WQwEIhPoNtstITC54VXyZpNwnspfp3WIDNGLyPCTijUs6UxHQzKQIHztRLkTzOl_RKdAV-OvgkV1CXfbYDkLj54Qnod8a3CHTOu8J5SAQL-tiHI1z4b8BpYbU/s1600/Valley+floor+at+Val+Venosta.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGtbtb7szTn0KlZWncx2WQwEIhPoNtstITC54VXyZpNwnspfp3WIDNGLyPCTijUs6UxHQzKQIHztRLkTzOl_RKdAV-OvgkV1CXfbYDkLj54Qnod8a3CHTOu8J5SAQL-tiHI1z4b8BpYbU/s320/Valley+floor+at+Val+Venosta.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the flat valley floor of Val Venosta in Alto Adige, land of the Pink Lady</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The fact that this region lies a long way from the Brits’
favoured Italian holiday destinations is one of the reasons for its under the
radar status. Another is that few of its wines make their way to us – and those
that do tend to be on the pricey side. But for those who want to explore
another side of apparently familiar varieties and to experience wines with
altitude, there’s plenty to see here.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">St Michael-Eppan
Pinot Grigio 2015 - £11.99 from Waitrose<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">At the more affordable end of things, this is a good
introduction to the region and its wines from its biggest co-op. Pinot Grigio
from Alto Adige tends to have much more character (it could hardly have less)
than the ubiquitous Veneto version.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOcT5OynKCckyWibpZ18oAvHqxNvcQ_xwJw20mudO8KFnwaSX3ak1L8JN-ptxvy6Syk2nYUC21fDcBWu9EJtcIHsZGwdW5eH1DY2LDOE7e88BiDmFrEZ8Ad80FRssTYIdSXkpfnffOCC8/s1600/IMG_20170228_115530896_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOcT5OynKCckyWibpZ18oAvHqxNvcQ_xwJw20mudO8KFnwaSX3ak1L8JN-ptxvy6Syk2nYUC21fDcBWu9EJtcIHsZGwdW5eH1DY2LDOE7e88BiDmFrEZ8Ad80FRssTYIdSXkpfnffOCC8/s320/IMG_20170228_115530896_HDR.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Terlano Pinot Bianco
Vorberg Riserva 2014, Cantina Terlano - £28.35 from Field and Fawcett; Petersham
Cellar sells a case of six of the 2013 for £180<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Two things about this wine might surprise you, given the
price. Firstly it’s made by a co-op and it’s made from the apparently lowly
Pinot Bianco/Pinot Blanc grape. Cantina Terlano, however, is one of the most
eminent of the region’s many co-ops (12 co-ops account for 70% of the region’s
wine output). And here, Pinot Blanc from steep, sunny vineyards at up to 900
metres altitude are fermented and aged in oak to give a wine of real charm. It
has weight and depth with lovely fresh yellow plum fruit and wonderful texture.
Like many of Alto Adige’s best white wines, this will age well – not something
you might associate with Pinot Blanc from anywhere else. A less eyewatering
option, pricewise, would be <b>Hofst</b><b>ätter Pinot Bianco 2015 - £10.95 a
bottle from The Wine Society</b>.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Franz Haas Pinot Nero
2013/14 – Hedonism has the 2014 for £29. 50, or £25.75 from Winedirect, D&D
Wine has the 2013 for £20<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Franz Haas wines are some of the better distributed wines in
the UK. Prices are rather steep, but theirs are some of the best Pinot Noirs
you’ll find in the region.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT5XIf3m9-wg_MS6hOInwUgSE9fE4TBCpmGSf-m6flVD_7q8qQ1HC6bnR5MrhJUaQ8pvNqjsAmT4FI0nc67hMP46YYbndJxR7z1tZhcIsWDCGvrZVEd7n34IFSYoymcqiZboU24Hi5AnM/s1600/IMG_20170228_121533592.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT5XIf3m9-wg_MS6hOInwUgSE9fE4TBCpmGSf-m6flVD_7q8qQ1HC6bnR5MrhJUaQ8pvNqjsAmT4FI0nc67hMP46YYbndJxR7z1tZhcIsWDCGvrZVEd7n34IFSYoymcqiZboU24Hi5AnM/s320/IMG_20170228_121533592.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b>Sauvignon Blanc Lafo</b><b>á 2015, Cantina Colterenzio - £30 from
Great Western Wine<o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Abandon hope, all ye Marlborough Sauvignon lovers who enter
here. This is not about pungent gooseberry and tropical fruit and zingy
acidity. Here it’s all about texture; the variety’s potent aromatics have been
tamed by barrel fermentation to make something that is dry, food-friendly and
ageworthy. Great Western Wine also list some of this producer’s other wines,
all under £15 a bottle.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b>Where to buy Alto
Adige wines ?</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">No-one has a very long list of wines from here, partly
because production is pretty small to begin with. In addition to stockists
already mentioned, Alpine Wines, as you might expect, have a small but decent
selection; and Guildford’s Caves de Pyrène have a few well-chosen producers
on their list. </span></div>
Heather Doughertyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11992050309481244224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6199918791109779200.post-38729879977385781402017-02-24T04:03:00.000-08:002017-02-24T04:03:11.195-08:00Rioja - a known unknown?<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">So, we all know the name, but what does it actually mean?
Does Rioja refer to a style of wine? A grape variety? A region of origin? In
fact, Rioja is the last of these three: a wine producing region of northern
Spain.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Like most of Spain, vines and winemaking were introduced
here by the Romans, a tradition which has continued ever since, albeit with a
substantial break during the years of the Moorish occupation from 711 AD.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">From the middle ages until the late 19<sup>th</sup> century,
wine from Rioja, as in most parts of Spain, was made for consuming locally and
with no great ceremony. Wine was a part of the peasant diet, no more, no less.
Workers’ rations at a Riojan monastery in 1205 consisted of “Bread, cheese and
wine at midday, bread and wine in the afternoon and bread, meat and wine in the
evening.”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">What changed Rioja’s fortunes was the arrival of <i>phylloxera vastatrix</i> in France in the
1860s. This splendidly-named vine pest from America attacked the roots of
grapevines, causing them to die. Merchants from Bordeaux, whose vineyards were
some of the first to succumb, travelled over the Pyrenées in search of
substitute wines to sell – and Rioja is where they found what they were looking
for.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">These were merchants, not grape growers or winemakers, so
they confined themselves to sourcing, blending and ageing wines from across the
region. They also brought the idea of ageing in oak barrels with them – though it
was American rather than French oak which dominated in those early years.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">These two elements – blending wines from across the region
and ageing in oak barrels – continue to be a hallmark of Rioja today.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">After its initial success, there followed an almost
inevitable rise to international fame, followed by a long period of whittling
away at its own reputation by an industrial attitude to production and little
respect for quality. Since the 1990s, however, thanks to greater competition
from within and outside Spain, Rioja has been forced to up its game and to begin
to justify its reputation once again.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><u><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Riojas ancient and
modern<o:p></o:p></span></u></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Marquès de Murrieta Castillo
Ygay Gran Reserva Especial 2007 - £66 a bottle from Hard to Fine Wines and
other independent merchants<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Two Marqueses, de Murrieta and de Riscal, probably helped
lure those first Bordelais merchants over the Pyrenées. Founded in 1852,
Marques de Murrieta has been a constant feature of the Riojan wine scene ever
since. This wine is made in the best years, mostly Tempranillo with 14% Mazuelo
(aka Carignan), aged for 26 months in American oak, then a minimum of three
years in bottle before release. This is a taste of tradition, with gentle
maturing charms.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b>Marquès de C</b><b>áceres Rioja Reserva 2011 - £12.99 (mix
six price) from Majestic<o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This bodega was the first to introduce new French oak to the
region in 1970 and it continues to have a thoroughly modern approach to its
wines: plenty of juicy fruit and only a little oak influence.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b>L</b><b>ópez de Heredia Vi</b><b>ña Tondonia Blanco Reserva 2003 -
£25.95 from Hennings, £28.50 from Woodwinters; Avery’s list the 2002 for £26<o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Yes, those vintages are correct. Viña Tondonia is an
ultra-traditional, long-lived style of both red and white wine. In this white
wine, Viura grapes (a humdrum, inexpressive variety) are transformed via six
years’ ageing in barrel and more in bottle into a rich golden, bone dry wine of
depth and elegance. It is fabulous with wild mushroom dishes or mature hard
cheeses.</span></div>
Heather Doughertyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11992050309481244224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6199918791109779200.post-24337119180039410852017-02-10T02:01:00.000-08:002017-02-10T02:01:56.676-08:00Wine and dine your Valentine<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Dry January, thank goodness, is behind us and the first
official occasion of the year for making a bit of a splash, wine-wise, is upon
us. Valentine’s Day is a perfect time to make a grand romantic gesture to your
loved one – and if that gesture is a bottle of something, you get to share it
too – win-win I’d say.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">What to buy your
Valentine?<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"> </span></o:p><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;">The obvious choice is pink and sparkling, so here are some
recommendations, from the budget bottle to the (very) grand gesture.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Langlois-Château Brut
Rosé NV – from £12, The Champagne Company, winedirect.co.uk, Amazon, Cellar
Magneval (Woking)<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This is a crémant (made in the same way as Champagne) from
the Loire Valley and given a distinctive character from the Cabernet Franc grapes that go to make it.
A delicate salmon pink, with a creamy mousse and real fruitiness with a little
strawberry shortbread, it delivers plenty of flavour at the price.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFdzQ2MwJ22XYkQlRXeGvbRaWBM0QOeNw5mZ3tLANiBKIjgCuyJ7Qk5nVvl9U64zs-kH78VaPj9hs_2XPnOUA8-TkD3apjEUMYK1fOFHkVk6vVsOY2ZSQfTuXbibxJ302dOfLUpHdbZpU/s1600/IMG_20170105_144632655.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFdzQ2MwJ22XYkQlRXeGvbRaWBM0QOeNw5mZ3tLANiBKIjgCuyJ7Qk5nVvl9U64zs-kH78VaPj9hs_2XPnOUA8-TkD3apjEUMYK1fOFHkVk6vVsOY2ZSQfTuXbibxJ302dOfLUpHdbZpU/s320/IMG_20170105_144632655.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b>Mo</b><b>ët & Chandon Rosé Imperial NV – RRP
£43, Sainsbury’s, Majestic, Selfridges, The Finest Bubble<o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Moët’s supple, fruity style suits those new to the Champagne
drinking lark. It has plenty of up-front, lively charm that is fresh and
suitable for drinking on its own. A fine way to kick off the evening.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Laurent-Perrier Cuvée
Rosé NV - £54.95 in a gift box at The Finest Bubble, £43.99 at Waitrose<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Laurent-Perrier’s rosé Champagne is one of the few which
gets its pink hue from contact of the skins of the black grapes with the juice
– most are made by adding a certain amount of red wine to the blend. Whether
one method or the other makes for a better Champagne is a point of debate, but
this has undoubted appeal, from its distinctive bottle to the lively
redcurrant-tinged fruit and fresh flavour. A magnum would taste even better,
with more complexity and elegance.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Bollinger Grande
Année 2005 - £94.95 at Finest Bubble (£92.95 each if you buy six – they won’t
go off), £85-£88 at Drink Supermarket, The Drink Shop<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I have a soft spot for this pink Bollinger vintage, which
combines the power of the house style with such indulgent finesse. Slightly
decadent, this is very much one for a romantic night in.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg22p3dfXdDh8hCqJQEc-5tSLAljYb_v8nbEGc1s4YW8S45K0PkgR5M_y6g875lawMc0AvuzODuPtwDirJzkU0p8vCLdRMZ3HpJnVlffEtewiQeBg2PCWAUV43eNoe2ZtinKKvWh4WpXEU/s1600/IMG_20170105_143608111_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg22p3dfXdDh8hCqJQEc-5tSLAljYb_v8nbEGc1s4YW8S45K0PkgR5M_y6g875lawMc0AvuzODuPtwDirJzkU0p8vCLdRMZ3HpJnVlffEtewiQeBg2PCWAUV43eNoe2ZtinKKvWh4WpXEU/s320/IMG_20170105_143608111_HDR.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Dom Ruinart Rosé 2002
– RRP £200, Harrods, Selfridges, Hedonism Wines, Jeroboams and Finest Bubble (who
offer same day or next day delivery in Surrey)<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This is an utterly beguiling champagne which would surely
win over any fan of fine white Burgundy. It is 80% Chardonnay, plus 20% of
Pinot Noir as red wine. The colour is a mellowing coral with orange highlights
and the nose is redolent of a maturing white Burgundy, combining rich and
expressive fruit with a featherlight delicacy. The Pinot Noir gives spice and
breadth on the finish and the wine’s long maturation on lees and under cork
makes for exquisite complexity. This is one to savour over lobster or other
rich seafood dishes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Try before you buy<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Cellar Wines in Ripley are putting on a free sampling of a
range of wines this <b>Saturday 11<sup>th</sup>
February</b>, including a couple of manager Andy’s favourite pink sparklers: <b>Antech Cuvée Emotion Rosé 2014</b> from
Limoux in southern France and <b>Champagne Goutorbe-Bouillot
Brut Rosé NV</b>. And there’s 10% off single bottles on the day – there’s no
rule that says you can’t be romantic AND canny.</span></div>
Heather Doughertyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11992050309481244224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6199918791109779200.post-15025648435906517812017-02-01T08:32:00.000-08:002017-02-01T08:32:38.968-08:00A wine by any other name...<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Have you ever tried a wine made from the Aubaine grape? How
about Luisant? Or Clevner? You might think not, but I am prepared to bet that you
have. If I tell you that these are all aliases for the same grape, and that one
of its other synonyms is Chaudenay, then perhaps you’ve guessed its better-known
name.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Yes, Chardonnay, the most widely planted white grape in the
world, is known by all these names – and many more.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">How does this happen? In the days before ampelography (the
science of grape vine identification), commercial vine cutting propagation and
import controls and quarantine for plant materials, it’s easy to imagine how a
variety, either newly arrived in a region, or already established, could end up
with a myriad of aliases, with growers free to decide on a name.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Cabernet Sauvignon is sometimes known as Bordeaux in
Switzerland and Bordo in Romania – a neat illustration both of how grape
varieties are often known by their (sometimes supposed) origin, and how those
names can mutate as they cross national and linguistic boundaries.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Not that a grape variety needs to travel very far at all to
be given a different name. Some of the very many synonyms for Cabernet
Sauvignon, purely within its native Bordeaux, include Bidure, (Petite) Vidure,
Bouchet, Carbonet, Carbouet and Marchoupet. Carbonet may derive from Cabernet,
but the others seem to bear little or no relationship to the now official name.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Just how do grape variety names come about? Some are cryptic
to us now. But they sometimes refer, as with Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux,
to the geographical origin. Or they describe characteristics of the vine itself
– such as Pinot Meunier. Meunier means “of the miller” in French, and the
vine’s leaves have a whitish floury dust on their undersides. But in other
cases and with vine names often dating back many hundreds of years, their
origins can remain mysterious.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Take Aglianico, a black grape famed for making
deep-flavoured, smoky and tannic reds in Campania, southern Italy. The name has
been thought to be a mangling over the centuries of the Italian word
“hellenico”, meaning Greek. For quite a while, an accepted hyphothesis was that
this variety may have been brought to Italy by the wine-loving Greeks. However,
since the emergence of DNA profiling – yes, it’s not just used to catch
criminals – we know that Aglianico bears no similarity to any current Greek
variety, but that it does share genetic similarities with other black grapes of
southern Italy. So bang goes that theory.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">DNA profiling has also taught us that California’s “native”
variety Zinfandel is in fact identical to southern Italy’s Primitivo – and that
both are synonyms for a Croatian variety called Tribidrag. Somehow I doubt
California’s winemakers are going to swap Zinfandel for Tribidrag on their
labels.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">As well as the same variety having bewildering number of
aliases, the opposite is also true, where the same name has been given to what
are, in fact, distinct varieties. The most renowned of these is Malvasia, a
name which you will find on white wines from the Canaries, via Madeira (where
we Brits wrangled it into Malmsey), Portugal, Spain, France, Italy and Croatia.
Sometimes it is the same Malvasia, often not. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">How grapes get their names can be mysterious – at other
times it can seem rather obvious. Returning to Cabernet Sauvignon, it seems
tempting to wonder whether it could perhaps be related to the red Cabernet
Franc and the white Sauvignon Blanc? Well yes, thanks, again, to DNA profiling,
we now know that indeed it is the offspring of these two parent varieties.
Sometimes the answer really has been staring us in the face all along.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
Heather Doughertyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11992050309481244224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6199918791109779200.post-63662461647084360912017-01-14T09:20:00.000-08:002017-01-14T09:20:52.685-08:00Winter wines on a budget<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">January is a tough time for the average wine lover. There
are few excuses to celebrate and, post-Christmas, there is an underlying
feeling that perhaps one should lay off the booze for a while, for the good of
the liver - and wallet.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">On the liver front, without going into too much laborious
detail, 2 or 3 alcohol free days a week year-round are what’s required. A
month-long moratorium on drinking is perhaps admirable, but will not benefit
your liver in the longer term if you simply then return to a daily glass or two
thereafter.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">And for the wallet…here are some wines that can help to
banish the winter blues, and which won’t give your bank balance a bruising.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Mesquiriz Navarra
Rosado 2015, Spain - £3.99, Lidl<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">At this price, this winter-weight Spanish rosé will bring a
smile to the lips of any skint wine drinker. The generous strawberry fruit with
a little kick of white pepper makes is a perfect midweek wine for bangers and
mash.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Trebuchet Chardonnay
2015, South Africa - £5.99 (mix six price until 30 Jan), Majestic<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This South African Chardonnay tastes much more expensive
than it is, especially at the reduced price. It has creamy fruit with a zesty
lemon finish.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Tesco finest* St Mont
2014, France - £6, Tesco<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The direction that Tesco’s wine range is heading doesn’t
give much to cheer about, but this long-lived member of their own label finest*
range is a welcome survivor of recent culls to the list. This blend of
Southwest France’s native white varieties Gros Manseng, Petit Courbu, Petit
Manseng and Arrufiac deliver a wine of character, combining grapefruit zing and
apricot-tinged fruit.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Casal de Ventozela
2015, Vinho Verde, Portugal - £6.99 (mix six price), Majestic<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This medal-winning Vinho Verde is fresh and spritzy with
lemon and herbal flavours – a tonic for the jaded.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Setze Gallets
Garnacha Monastrell, Spain 2014 - £7.25, The Wine Society<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Full-flavoured, fruity and with a level of class that belies
its price, this is perfect winter comfort wine. From the sunny climes of
Valencia in Spain and aged in amphorae, this red combines the dense dark fruit
of Monastrell with the rich liveliness of old vine Garnacha.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Falanghina Sassi del
Mare 2015, Italy - £7.99, Lidl<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This is part of Lidl’s Christmas wine collection, which you
should be able to find until the next collection hits their shelves from 26<sup>th</sup>
January onwards. Try this gem of an Italian white, from Campania, for a taste
of springtime honeysuckle in winter. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Tesco finest*
Tingleup Riesling 2015, Australia - £8, Tesco<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Another long-standing Tesco listing, the wine’s flavour
somehow matches the its name – though Tingleup is simply the name of the region
of origin in Western Australia. Fresh, juicy lime fruit and waxiness combine in
a wine which is dry but never austere.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Mesta Organic Old
Vine Tempranillo 2015, Spain - £8, M&S<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The same red grape, Tempranillo, as Rioja, but in a richer,
riper style that is full of fruit with an edge of tomato leaf - and without oak.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Zalze
Shiraz/Mourvèdre/Viognier 2015, South Africa - £8.29, Waitrose<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">For people who like their winter reds to pack a punch of
both flavour and alcohol, this delivers the necessary with full-flavoured,
juicy fruit.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Blason du Rhône 2015,
Côtes du Rhône Villages, France - £8.99, Waitrose<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The word “Villages” in the name is an important one,
signifying a step up in quality from straight Côtes du Rhône. This soothing
wine is soft and smooth with strawberry fruit and a hint of herbs on the finish.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
Heather Doughertyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11992050309481244224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6199918791109779200.post-40443438561035459362016-12-30T10:55:00.001-08:002016-12-30T10:55:45.621-08:00Best Champagnes for New Year's Eve<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">If you want to toast the arrival of 2017 in style, but
haven’t yet chosen what to drink, then Champagne should be top of the list as
the instant shortcut to celebration and luxury. Here’s a selection of my
all-time favourites and new discoveries from this year which you should be able
to pick up between now and tomorrow evening. These tend towards the luxury end
of the scale, so for more affordable bottles see my festive party fizz
recommendations here: <a href="http://yourliquidassets.blogspot.co.uk/2016/12/fizz-for-sparkling-christmas-parties.html">http://yourliquidassets.blogspot.co.uk/2016/12/fizz-for-sparkling-christmas-parties.html</a></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Louis Roederer Brut
Premier NV - £31 Cellar Wines Ripley (who also list magnums for £69), £31.99
The Wine Reserve Cobham, on offer until 3 Jan at £29.99 from Waitrose, £29.99
mix six price at Majestic, £34.99 Taurus Wines Bramley<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Roederer’s style is all about finesse and elegance, but with
a hint of underlying richness. Perfect as an aperitif, or with the bongs of Big
Ben.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Mailly Grand Cru Brut
NV - £29.99 (as part of a case of 6) The Wine Reserve Cobham<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This Pinot Noir based Cuvée is more seriously structured and
would be wonderful with food, even relatively hearty chicken or other fowl.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Pol Roger Brut
Réserve NV - £31.99 (as part of a case of 6) The Wine Reserve Cobham, on offer
until 3 Jan at £31.99 at Waitrose, £34.99 mix six price at Majestic. M&S
have magnums for £79.99<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Pol Roger was Winston Churchill’s favourite Champagne, and I have
always found it a beguiling mix of elegance and freshness, but with perfectly
judged depth. Any time is a good time for a glass of Pol, and I love to savour
it on its own. Or you could trade up to <b>Pol
Roger Vintage 2006 - £56.99 Waitrose, £54.99 (as part of a case of 6) The Wine
Reserve Cobham</b>. There are many layers of flavour with hints of maturity but
still so lively.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Charles Heidsieck
Brut Réserve NV - £39.99 (as part of a case of 6) The Wine Reserve Cobham,
£39.99 Taurus Wines Bramley<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Charles Heidsieck may not be as well-known as the more
celebrated grande marque houses, but it makes Champagnes of such quality and
deliciousness that no Champagne fan should ignore them. The high proportion of
reserve wines (from previous vintages, used to add depth and character) make
this a sophisticated Champagne that is also incredibly food friendly and so
much more than just bubbles. For a real treat I would heartily recommend <b>Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millenaires
1995 - £139.99 (as part of a case of 6) The Wine Reserve Cobham</b>. This
mature vintage, 100% Chardonnay wine is a hedonist’s dream. Pure heaven.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Lanson Extra Age NV -
£45 from M&S<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I find the regular Lanson Black Label rather hard work, but
this longer aged prestige cuvée, based on wines from the 2002, 2004 and 2005
vintages, is a treat. There are hints of almond and marzipan on the nose and it
is rich, yet with no heaviness, thanks to Lanson’s hallmark high acidity. This
would wow with seafood.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Bollinger Grande
Année 2005 - £68 at Cellar Wines Ripley, £69.99 mix six price at Majestic,
£64.99 (as part of a case of 6) The Wine Reserve Cobham<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">If you’re a fan of Bollinger’s non vintage Special Cuvée,
then treat yourself to their vintage to find all the verve and intensity that
you love, with added refinement.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Taittinger Comtes de
Champagne 2006 - £120 from M&S, £99.95 from Finest Bubble (next day
delivery available). Taurus Wines have the 2005 for £139.99<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This prestige cuvée from the famous house of Taittinger is a
pinnacle of the Blanc de Blancs style of Champagne. 100% Chardonnay and 100%
class - lovely, fine, refined and full of flavour.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Krug Grande Cuvée
Brut - £126 Majestic, £129 Taurus Wines Bramley, £114.95 from Finest Bubble
(who offer next day delivery outside London)<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I have never not completely enjoyed a glass of Krug. If you
are willing to give it your full attention it rewards you with a stimulating
and beguiling feast for the senses. If, however, you just want to enjoy it, it
is simply incredibly delicious.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Do magnums matter?<o:p></o:p></span></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">A magnum is exactly double the size of a regular bottle –
1.5l compared with 750ml. As you can see from the list above, there is usually
a price premium for the magnum, which costs more than simply buying two
bottles. Why should that be? And should you pay the premium?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Partly it is a matter of scarcity and prestige – magnums say
celebration, with knobs on - but there are also genuine reasons why you might
prefer a Champagne from magnum to a bottle. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Champagnes in magnum age more slowly and gracefully than
those in bottle, partly because there is a greater volume of wine in magnum, yet
the same amount of oxygen between the surface of the wine and the bottom of the
cork as in a bottle. I can tell you from experience, that exactly the same
Champagne aged in bottle and in magnum can and do taste different. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The champagne in the magnum combines the liveliness and
freshness of youth, but with the depth and complexity that come with maturity. This
effect becomes more pronounced over time, so it is especially important with
longer aged vintage and prestige cuvées. </span><o:p></o:p></div>
Heather Doughertyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11992050309481244224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6199918791109779200.post-54998521682081735892016-12-19T01:26:00.000-08:002016-12-19T01:26:02.211-08:00Wines for the Christmas table<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Here’s a handy guide to wines to make your Christmas Day go
with a swing.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Smoked salmon<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">When you have your smoked salmon might determine your choice
of drinking accompaniment.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYu5fs1Eqz1obbM7pyc7nJMq-VdVvfYcipTqi-lyKlJdhD4Z-Cy-wzOM6O8aMPWFmd1MKjroTwtEYGwvQ1OvSJB3BMxhhy6iexzq86b1xRr4qpiFwwe-YV7YCojk6xn6IT6avITXx-Dq0/s1600/IMG_20161112_160029335.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYu5fs1Eqz1obbM7pyc7nJMq-VdVvfYcipTqi-lyKlJdhD4Z-Cy-wzOM6O8aMPWFmd1MKjroTwtEYGwvQ1OvSJB3BMxhhy6iexzq86b1xRr4qpiFwwe-YV7YCojk6xn6IT6avITXx-Dq0/s320/IMG_20161112_160029335.jpg" width="180" /></a><b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Pouilly Fumé 2015,
Masson Blondelet - £15.99, Ocado<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">If it’s as a starter to the Christmas Day feast, then a
smart bottle like this could be the way to go. Sauvignon Blanc finds its most
mineral, sometimes smoky, expression in the Loire vineyards of Pouilly Fumé.
The fresh, tangy, slightly marine aromas give way to a textured, fragrant wine
with zesty acidity, delicate structure and persistent flavour. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">If, however, your smoked salmon crops up in a more brunchy
setting – don’t look at the clock, it’s Christmas - a bottle of something
sparkling might be more fun. There are plenty of fizz recommendations in my
previous column (online version here: <a href="http://yourliquidassets.blogspot.co.uk/2016/12/fizz-for-sparkling-christmas-parties.html">http://yourliquidassets.blogspot.co.uk/2016/12/fizz-for-sparkling-christmas-parties.html</a>).
If I were to choose one perfect match from that list, it would have to be <b>Champagne Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs 2007
Grand Cru - £33.99, Waitrose. <o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The main event –
Christmas dinner<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Roast turkey (or goose), roast potatoes, sprouts, cranberry
sauce, gravy, pigs in blankets – is it really possible for a wine to match all
the foods that we merrily pile onto our festive plates on Christmas Day? In
truth no, so we can be liberated from embarking on that impossible task. The prime
consideration is to choose something you know you’ll enjoy. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">But there are wines that will cope with the kind of rich
cornucopia of flavours better than others. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Pinot Noir is usually my choice of red for the occasion. It
makes wines that are fragrant and full of red fruit with only a whisper of
tannin, but with crisp acidity: a profile that makes for wines which can rub
along happily with a wide range of flavours, rather than clashing with them.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Try one of these:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Villa Maria Private
Bin Pinot Noir 2015 - £8.50, Morrison’s, £9, Asda<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">At its full recommended retail price of £13.35 this is no
bargain, but at these special offer prices there’s plenty to recommend this New
Zealand Pinot: aromas of raspberry and clove carry through to the palate, with
barely there tannins. This is fruity and easy-drinking enough to take with you
after the meal to the sitting room for slurping with a box set. In the same
sort of vein is <b>Ara Single Vineyard
Pinot Noir 2014 - £11.99, Waitrose.<o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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</div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Sancerre Rouge au
Bois de l’Epine 2015 - £15, M&S<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Red Sancerre, always made from Pinot Noir, has improved
greatly in quality in recent years. This has lovely ripeness of fruit, body and
texture.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Domaine Lucien Muzard
Santenay Premier Cru Maladière 2014 - £21.49, Waitrose<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Ultimately, no-one does Pinot Noir better than in Burgundy.
This example, from the Côte de Beaune, the southern half of the Côte d’Or, has
spent a year in oak and combines depth and intensity with a smooth richness.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Contino Rioja Reserva
2005 - £25, The Wine Society (Marks & Spencer have the 2010 at the same
price, as do Waitrose) <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">You can’t go wrong with Rioja. The mellow nature of the
wine, thanks to oak ageing, makes it slip in just fine with all manner of
dishes. It’s renowned for matching with lamb, but, I would argue, is one of the
most versatile of red wine styles. And who isn’t pleased to see a bottle of
Rioja on the table?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Contino is a byword for quality in Rioja. Their wine is made
from all their own estate-grown fruit (not the norm in Rioja) and the balance
of flavour, ripeness and freshness is usually spot on. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Christmas pudding <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Sometimes it’s hard to do justice to the Christmas pudding
after all the conspicuous consumption that precedes it. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Royal Palace Colheita
Port 2002 - £26, M&S<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">A Tawny Port, aged for a few years in oak, would make a good
match for the dried fruits, nuts and spice of your Chritmas pud, and could
happily continue on to the cheese course. <b>Warre’s
Otima (widely available at around £12 for a 50cl bottle)</b> is a reliable
introduction to the style, with some mellowing nuttiness alongside the sweet,
spicy fruit. Single vintage, or Colheita, Ports are often a step up in quality
and complexity. This one, from the 2002 vintage has a stimulating mix of
berries and herbs with a medicinal hint.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCyTWIvJj4fchzWJZZg0W61hd-keVLKJsX0nLQFTfMNgc-FJ0QeObSTyCGSdbzr3qI_C_JQc64Gb_7WMYuCGRGQPHd0pVfhkJNU6jShUcZeDE98e5VOPMjdwTI1AniYdcbX9XXg3gLwXc/s1600/IMG_20161219_091210394_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCyTWIvJj4fchzWJZZg0W61hd-keVLKJsX0nLQFTfMNgc-FJ0QeObSTyCGSdbzr3qI_C_JQc64Gb_7WMYuCGRGQPHd0pVfhkJNU6jShUcZeDE98e5VOPMjdwTI1AniYdcbX9XXg3gLwXc/s320/IMG_20161219_091210394_HDR.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Fontanafredda Moscato
d’Asti Moncucco 2015 - £9.95 (50cl), Great Western Wine<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Or you could go more leftfield and try a Moscato d’Asti.
Rather than matching flavours, this is about providing a contrast. The fresh,
lightly sparkling pear flavours of this delightful Italian charmer provide a
foil to the richness of the pudding. And
if you can’t face the pudding at all, a glass of this (at only 5.5% alcohol) is
a great post-prandial pick me up.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Cheeseboard<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Harveys VORS Palo
Cortado - £22.59 (50cl), Waitrose<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">VORS stands for Very Old Rare Sherry and this Palo Cortado,
aged for a minimum of 30 years, certainly fits the bill. The label indicates
medium sweetness, but I would say it is just off-dry and the long ageing brings
wonderful complexity, with tangy nuttiness, caramel, dried fruits and more to
savour. Sherry is perhaps not a classic cheese match, but try this and you
might be converted. If I were Len, I’d give it 10.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Cook’s treat<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Finally, and most importantly, the success of any Christmas
Day should include something delicious for the cook(s) to sip at as they chop,
stuff, steam and baste in the kitchen.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Dr Loosen Slate Hill
Riesling 2015 – £8.99 on offer at Majestic (mix six price)<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This zingy, fresh Riesling has a little lemon and peach
fruity sweetness, but finishes dry. The perfect thing to have by your side as
you cook and, at only 8.5% alcohol, you can have a glass of this without feeling
sozzled before the turkey’s on the table.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
Heather Doughertyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11992050309481244224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6199918791109779200.post-32733296990885127102016-12-06T01:35:00.000-08:002016-12-06T01:35:15.106-08:00Fizz for sparkling Christmas parties<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Your guide to the best wines for the festive season begins
here.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">If you’re planning on a Christmas drinks party, then bubbles
have to be part of the picture. Here are some of my sure fire hits that won’t
have your guests looking for the nearest pot plant to empty their drinks into –
but which won’t be overly demanding on the pocket either.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I’ve also included some more expensive recommendations that might
be a stretch for a party budget, but that I would certainly be happy to sip or
to serve on any occasion over Christmas.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVQUaTMWsoZ7EYnl7s6Zt_FzZ-y-xgci14a0mCnxQj_J8LC3LSmU1Ov7qW0flQBnyGUCcecKccKoXd2u7oxjaeazVDSwpsy3q884zwm5-27qYYvmZfIsJf0rAL_txmJ1WnOjTTTxM8QRk/s1600/IMG_20161122_170437962.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVQUaTMWsoZ7EYnl7s6Zt_FzZ-y-xgci14a0mCnxQj_J8LC3LSmU1Ov7qW0flQBnyGUCcecKccKoXd2u7oxjaeazVDSwpsy3q884zwm5-27qYYvmZfIsJf0rAL_txmJ1WnOjTTTxM8QRk/s320/IMG_20161122_170437962.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Sparkling Chardonnay
Crémant du Jura - £7.49, Aldi<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This has to be one of the best sparkling wine bargains
around – and the fact that is has been included by the Association of Wine
Educators as one of their 100 AWEsome Wines 2016 (see <a href="http://www.wineeducators.com/100-awesome-wines/">http://www.wineeducators.com/100-awesome-wines/</a>
for the full downloadable list) tells you that it punches well above its
weight. Light, fresh, fine sparkling wine made in the same way as Champagne
from the little-known Jura region in eastern France.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span></o:p></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Franciacorta Brut -
£8.99, Lidl<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This is part of Lidl’s Christmas collection, one of their
“when it’s gone it’s gone” selections. It has lovely creamy mousse and appley
fruit, a touch riper than Champagne, coming as it does from northern Italy. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Calvet Crémant de
Bordeaux Brut Rosé - £11.99, Ocado</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFe6hnXmqCzmLRdAdzkzjWR82CFKaO6ob6eG74Yod6ukPecInsVB9GDMNv9x2zwkMd977xmynH04iVqeX6-5kmAoWr4kEf6O_WxemWq7Yx_XsKTdy9vS7Ji_04pvviFNJsy1lQA_BQkec/s1600/IMG_20161112_155950224_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFe6hnXmqCzmLRdAdzkzjWR82CFKaO6ob6eG74Yod6ukPecInsVB9GDMNv9x2zwkMd977xmynH04iVqeX6-5kmAoWr4kEf6O_WxemWq7Yx_XsKTdy9vS7Ji_04pvviFNJsy1lQA_BQkec/s320/IMG_20161112_155950224_HDR.jpg" width="180" /></a></span></b></div>
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Pink bubbles certainly help to make everything more festive
and this bottle, made from Cabernet Franc, has a lovely creamy mousse and a
refreshing leafy edge to the fruit.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD0e8SIqYZgDUzIpglZubJeee3AaJxjZB4Lr0QtlPVQL9_IrdFLoDTF20_-jSwMtMxnrWgNDKXrTbqvSYXIb_CUw0ckQKgD6XgIA-cowP5AGK36DOnCtsN9GPy7bO33rbCgD-nOW6ysF0/s1600/IMG_20161112_155906156.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD0e8SIqYZgDUzIpglZubJeee3AaJxjZB4Lr0QtlPVQL9_IrdFLoDTF20_-jSwMtMxnrWgNDKXrTbqvSYXIb_CUw0ckQKgD6XgIA-cowP5AGK36DOnCtsN9GPy7bO33rbCgD-nOW6ysF0/s320/IMG_20161112_155906156.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Montes Sparking Angel
Brut NV - £15.50, Oddbins<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This is a blend of two of the traditional Chamapagne
varieties, Pinor Noir and Chardonnay, and is made in the same way as Champagne.
But the warmer Chilean climate makes for riper fruit flavours, along with
toasty, nutty almond and even a hint of marmalade.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Definition Blanc de
Blancs Champagne NV - £19.99 (mix six price), Majestic<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I love the pure Chardonnay fruit, mineral finish, and the classic
Blanc de Blancs profile of this Majestic own label Champagne. But I really
don’t care for the actual label, so this is perhaps best kept in the ice bucket
when not being poured. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Greyfriars Rosé
Reserve 2013 - £21 from greyfriarsvineyard.co.uk<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Keep it local with this award winning traditional method
English fizz, made from vines grown on the Hog’s Back south of Guildford.
Finely structured with poise and precision.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Furleigh Estate
Dorset Coast Special Reserve NV - £22.50, Waitrose<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Another English sparkler, this time from Dorset. Aromas of
shortbread, peaches and cream lead onto a lively, fruity palate. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Waitrose Champagne Blanc
de Blancs Brut NV - £22.99, Waitrose<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Good depth of flavour, nice linearity and an underlying
minerality mean that this Champagne tastes much more expensive than it is.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Champagne Oudinot
Brut 2008 - £30, M&S<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Like all its wines, this Champagne is exclusive to M&S
and delivers rich, savoury, egg-custard and baked apple fruit. The full
flavours make this one for the table rather than an aperitif.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Champagne Le Mesnil
Blanc de Blancs 2007 Grand Cru - £33.99, Waitrose<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Really lovely stuff, with pretty fruit, length and elegance,
along with those bready, yeasty flavours that denote lengthy ageing on the
lees.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Heather Doughertyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11992050309481244224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6199918791109779200.post-26668574995421710532016-11-28T02:41:00.000-08:002016-11-28T02:41:39.753-08:00Applause for La Clape<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The vast expanse of Languedoc-Roussillon and its swathes of
vineyards making a myriad of different wines can be daunting to get to grips
with.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">At its simplest, IGP Pays d’Oc is the catch all appellation
for wines made anywhere across the region, often with varietal labelling. And
while I’m pleased Pays d’Oc exists, there are many worthwhile wines to be found
by digging deeper into Languedoc and Roussillon.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">But there are so many names to remember! Here are just a few
wine appellations off the top of my head: Fitou, Minervois, Pic St Loup,
Faugères, Saint Chinian, Picpoul de Pinet – there are many, many more. Oh, and
you might also come across AOC Languedoc; and IGP Côtes Catalanes functions
like IGP Pays d’Oc for Roussillon. In short, the picture is, as always,
complicated.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">To help decode some of the mystique, here’s a quick guide to
one of the appellations responsible for some of the most exciting and
characterful wines from the region. It also helps that the name is simple for
Anglophones to get their tongues round: La
Clape.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">La Clape is a one-time island, which now forms a conspicuous
bump of limestone on the coastal plain between the city of Narbonne and the
Mediterreanean. The environment is harsh – the salt-laden wind, poor rocky
soils and baking sun make it fit really for only for vines and olives.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Wines from here seem to have a unique character, which must
be influenced by their singular growing environment. Flavours are ripe, but
with a grip and freshness that might surprise you, given their southerly
origins. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Château Rouquette Cuvée
Arpège 2015 - £10.95 from the Wine Society<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">All white wines from La Clape must include some Bourboulenc
– a variety native to the Rhône Valley. It can be rather characterless, but in
La Clape it assumes a richness of flavour, while retaining all-important
freshness, alongside “grip” – a certain texture that red wines usually have,
but white wines tend not to. Here it is blended with Rhône bedfellow Roussanne,
and is unoaked, making for vibrant, fresh fruit flavours that refresh and
cleanse the palate. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Château d’Anglès
Grand Vin Blanc 2012 - £19.80 from Hedonism Wines<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Eric Fabre, ex of Château Lafite Rothschild, knows a thing
or two about crafting fine wines. His Classique blanc is in the same mould at
Ch Rouquette above, but this Grand Vin, a blend of Bourboulenc, Grenache,
Roussanne and Marsanne has been fermented and aged in oak, giving a wine of power
and complexity. You can also find Château d’Anglès Grand Vin Rouge 2010 at
online merchant Vin Cognito for £14.50.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Red<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Château Rouquette 2014
- £10.95 from the Wine Society<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The red incarnation of Ch Rouquette combines old vine
Carignan with Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre – hardly an unusual recipe in this
part of the world; but the singularity of La Clape gives the wine a saline tang
and wonderful texture.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><i>Upcoming wine events in Surrey<o:p></o:p></i></span></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><i>I'm involved in a few wine events between now and the end of the year. It would be great to see some readers at one or both.</i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><i><b>6 December, 8pm –
Wine Discovery evening at Cellar Magneval, Woking</b> – a relaxed evening of
wine tasting and learning at Woking’s cool and quirky wine bar, focusing on
wines for Christmas. See: <a href="http://www.cellarmagneval.com/woking-events">http://www.cellarmagneval.com/woking-events</a>
<o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><i><b>15 December, 8pm – The
fine wines of Burgundy at Cellar Wines, Ripley </b>– do the ultimate Christmas
Day wines come from Burgundy? More details and booking: <a href="https://www.cellarwines.co.uk/events/the-fine-wines-of-burgundy/">https://www.cellarwines.co.uk/events/the-fine-wines-of-burgundy/</a></i></span>
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<b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'><span
style='font-size:14.0pt;line-height:107%'>Upcoming events<o:p></o:p></span></b></p>
<p class=MsoNormal>
<o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal>
<b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>6 December, 8pm –
Wine Discovery evening at Cellar Magneval, Woking</b> – a relaxed evening
of wine tasting and learning at Woking’s cool and quirky wine bar, focusing
on wines for Christmas. See: <a
href="http://www.cellarmagneval.com/woking-events">http://www.cellarmagneval.com/woking-events</a>
<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal>
<o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal>
<b style='mso-bidi-font-weight:normal'>15 December, 8pm
– The fine wines of Burgundy at Cellar Wines, Ripley </b>– do the ultimate
Christmas Day wines come from Burgundy? More details and booking: <a
href="https://www.cellarwines.co.uk/events/the-fine-wines-of-burgundy/">https://www.cellarwines.co.uk/events/the-fine-wines-of-burgundy/</a>
<o:p></o:p></p>
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Heather Doughertyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11992050309481244224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6199918791109779200.post-58391949380686299622016-11-10T02:58:00.000-08:002016-11-10T02:58:35.165-08:00Time for a Carignan rehabilitation<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Carignan is probably not a grape variety whose name readily trips
off the tongue. It’s not one of the highly regarded, “noble” varieties like
Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay. Nor is it, like Pinot Grigio, so ubiquitous
that people ask for a glass of it by name in their local gastro pub.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">So, a potted biography of Carignan is perhaps in order. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Carignan is mostly found in Languedoc-Roussillon, where it
generally forms part of a blend and is rarely seen or its own, or, indeed
trumpeted on a front label. It originates, however, in Aragon in northeastern
Spain. Back in its native land, it is often known as Mazuelo (or Mazuela in
Rioja) or, in Catalonia, Samsó, though you may also see Cariñena (which is
also, confusingly, the name of a wine region). Outside France and Spain,
you are most likely to come across it in Chile where, thankfully, it is called simply
Carignan. There is some in North America, where it has acquired an extra “e” as
Carignane.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Carignan has been recorded in southern France since Medieval
times, but this longevity has not led to respect and it tends to be labelled a
workhorse variety at best. At worst it is derided or even despised. Why?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Carignan needs a long, warm growing season to ripen fully,
so it has never spread to cooler parts of France. Its influence in southern
France has been waning in recent years, but it was valued by growers,
especially up until the latter part of the 20<sup>th</sup> century, as a high
yielding grape which added colour, alcohol and acidity to otherwise weedy
wines.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The Carignan vine is a vigorous grower which will provide
high yields, if allowed to, which give a deep coloured, high acid wine that is long
on tannin and short on fruit. Sounds good, huh? But, but – lower yielding old
vines that have not been irrigated and whose fruit has been treated carefully
can give wines with distinct, rich inky black fruit, accompanied by present but
pleasant tannins and that acidity gives a freshness that is welcome in wines
from a warm climate.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Many Carignan vines have been pulled up in
Languedoc-Roussillon, partly encouraged by government vine pull schemes. Those
that remain are, increasingly, those older bushvines on better land away from
the flat, fertile plains – and they make correspondingly better, increasingly
very good, wines.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">So, now is the time to discover and rehabilitate Carignan –
say its name with pride.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b>3C, Cari</b><b>ñena 2015 (Spain)- £5.25 The Wine
Society<o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Ignore the hideous label and tuck into the delightlful
unoaked Carignan within. There is plenty of juicy black fruit and a lick of
tannin that will hit the spot on many a chilly, dark night. You are unlikely to
find another red wine that packs so much flavour in at this price.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Les Crouzes, Carignan
Vieilles Vignes 2015 - £6.49 Co-op<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Despite its ubiquity, it is still rare to find a 100%
Carignan wine in the Languedoc. This is the essence of the Midi, where a
certain rusticity meets fresh and fruity to great effect.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Torres Cordillera
Carignan 2009 (Chile) - £13.99 Taurus Wines, Bramley<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This is a brilliant example of Carignan made from old,
unirrigated bush vines in the Maule region of Chile. Producers there have now
banded together to form the VIGNO project, designed to highlight the wines made
from these increasingly rare old (sometimes up to 100 years old) vines. This is
full of black, brambly fruit with bay leaf herbal characters and a lipsmacking
freshness.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
Heather Doughertyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11992050309481244224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6199918791109779200.post-44863565189043491302016-10-13T04:42:00.000-07:002016-10-13T04:42:41.429-07:00Bordeaux rising<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Bordeaux is a gargantuan wine region, its annual production
of 5.5 million hectolitres accounting for over a quarter of France’s total. It
is home to some of the most famous, prestigious and highly-valued wines in the
world – but these wines account for less than 5% of the total.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">What of the other 95%? A good deal of it is rather thin,
weedy red wine that is made and sold cheaply. In between these two extremes,
however, are winemakers struggling to make a living by making the best wine they
can from their vines, in the face of prices that are pegged back by those
lowest common denominator wines. The stratospheric, to merely high, prices of
the top wines may feel geographically close, yet they are out of reach for
these producers.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Could white wine be a brighter future for Bordeaux’s “squeezed
middle”? It might at least be part of it. While a dampish, maritime climate
like Bordeaux’s can struggle to ripen red grapes each year, it poses less of a
problem for faster ripening white varieties.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">So, Sauvignon Blanc, Sancerre and even white Burgundy fans,
pin back thy lugs, as what follows could be of interest to you.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Bordeaux’s whites are predominantly based on Sauvignon
Blanc, sometimes with a little of that under-rated but quality variety, Semillon
too. The part of Bordeaux known as Entre-Deux-Mers (literally “between two
seas” though the seas in question are actually the Garonne and Dordogne rivers)
nowadays produces rather too much so-so red wine, which accounts for much of
the everyday Bordeaux and Bordeaux
Superieur that we see on supermarket shelves. But it is also still home to some
white grapes, predominantly Sauvignon Blanc.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">West of there, south of Bordeaux, the Graves area has long
been famous for both its red and white wines. Since 1987, the northern part of
Graves was sliced off to be known as Pessac-Léognan, which is now home to
Bordeaux’s most prestigious dry white wines.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Calvet Réserve
Sauvignon Blanc 2015 - £8.99 at Waitrose (down to £6.74 until 11 October)<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This wine, along with <b>Dourthe
No 1 (£8.50 from The Wine Society</b>), makes a great case for Bordeaux’s
ability to make fresh, zippy and appealing – but not green or underripe –
Sauvignon Blanc at a sensible price. Both these négociant winemakers will
choose parcels of wine from across the region to contribute to their blend, in
order to get the flavour profile they want. These light styles are perfect on
their own or are made for lighter seafood dishes like mussels, oysters, simply
served crab and delicate fish dishes. See also <b>Marks & Spencer’s own Bordeaux Sauvignon Blanc 2015 (£8.50)</b>,
sourced from Entre-Deux-Mers. It is understated enough not to fight with
whatever’s on your plate, but delivers spritzy, lemon zest fruit and a nicely
textured palate.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUZxVFhrkrhVF7QQ2nWK-6g2bMdBqTkIeFg4CEE3XtLQL4a-gkDfMT6qC-3ZUn869sJ_sbJPihX7XllpJiLJZw9i-fS7v1jsZV9tStfHp6qTtgqMUHv_Uepi2fzLUbTekyCOvYxgBlR1o/s1600/Laithwaites+Sauv+Blanc+15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUZxVFhrkrhVF7QQ2nWK-6g2bMdBqTkIeFg4CEE3XtLQL4a-gkDfMT6qC-3ZUn869sJ_sbJPihX7XllpJiLJZw9i-fS7v1jsZV9tStfHp6qTtgqMUHv_Uepi2fzLUbTekyCOvYxgBlR1o/s320/Laithwaites+Sauv+Blanc+15.jpg" width="83" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Laithwaite’s
Sauvignon Blanc 2015 - £9.99 from Laithwaites<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This wine is made from parcels of vines in the
Entre-Deux-Mers and has the fresh, citrus flavour of the Calvet, but also a
more delicate elderflower aroma and a touch of savoury, leesiness on the
palate. This could stand up to more full flavoured dishes like roasted cod or
possibly scallops.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Château Bouscaut
Blanc 2009, Péssac-Léognan - £31 from The Wine Society<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Here’s why the wines of Pessac-Léognan are so valued – they
develop beautifully with age and deliver rich complexity combining lime acidity
combined with toast and hay. This is a blend of 55% Sauvignon Blanc and 45%
Semillon that has been fermented aged in oak barrels, contributing texture and
an extra flavour dimension to the wine. As well as rich seafood dishes like
shrimp and lobster, this would be knockout with Christmas dinner. This one is
for you, white Burgundy lovers.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
Heather Doughertyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11992050309481244224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6199918791109779200.post-84851741730059282502016-09-23T08:26:00.001-07:002016-09-23T08:26:35.070-07:00Aperitivo time
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: large;">Time was, an aperitif meant a hugely expensive gin and tonic
served in a fancy restaurant while you perused the menu. I’m not one to turn
down a G&T, but a broader range of pre-dinner snifters is very welcome.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: large;">Of course many of these aperitif drinks have a long and
distinguished history and what we are experiencing is actually a re-discovery.
But the expansion of bar and cocktail culture is also driving new uses for them
to whet the appetites of a new generation of drinkers.</span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: large;">Vermouth is probably the most famous style of specialist
aperitif and it is great for drinking alone, over ice, but also adds depth and
interest to cocktails. </span><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: large;">The process to make it sounds straightforward enough:
various botanicals are steeped in grape spirit for a period of time and then
mixed with wine and caramel to give the required level of sweetness to balance
the dryness of the wine and the bitterness of the herbs. In order to qualify as
vermouth, one of the botanicals must be wormwood, or </span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: large;">Artemisia absinthium</span></i><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: large;">. The Latin name gives you a clue that this is
the same herb used to flavour Absinthe, rocket fuel of the Parisian demi monde,
the wormwood giving it its hallmark green tinge. </span><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: large;">The German for wormwood, Wermut, gives us vermouth in
English. Vermouths tend to be around 14-20% alcohol, roughly the same as sherry
and port. </span><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: large;">The birthplace of vermouth is Italy and its second home is
France. The big names, Cinzano and Martini, are both based in Turin, northern
Italy and their various incarnations are widely available. Noilly Prat, the
classic French vermouth hails from Marseillan, not far from Béziers in southern
France. Noilly Prat Original Dry, with its full flavoured, very dry style and
hint of herbal bitterness would be my choice for a classic vodka martini.</span><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: large;">If you’ve dipped your toe into the aperitif pool in recent
years, it may well have been Aperol that tempted you in. Aperol shares some
characteristics with vermouth, but the dominant flavouring is quinine, a bitter
tasting substance derived from the bark of the quinquina tree, rather than
wormwood. Such drinks are collectively known as quinquinas. </span><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: large;">Aperol originated in Padua in Italy and became popular
between the wars. It’s a slightly disconcertingly bright orange colour and has
a bitter-sweet flavour profile – think of a less brightly coloured and less
intensely flavoured Campari. The in vogue way to drink it is as a spritz:
3 parts Prosecco, 2 parts Aperol and 1 part soda water, over ice with a slice of orange. As Aperol is only around 11%
alcohol to start with, this ends up being a lightish option as an aperitif and
has the added virtue of being fizzy, which is what we Brits seem to require in
our drinks currently.</span><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: large;">There are no hard and fast rules about the different
categories of aperitif and in addition to vermouth and quinquina you might also
come across Americano, which is usually grouped with the quinquinas as this
ingredient is generally part of the recipe. Another issue which muddies the
waters is that these drinks usually involve proprietary blends of herbs and
spices and the exact recipes will be jealously guarded. </span><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: large;">Other quinquinas you might encounter include Dubonnet (£9
from Tesco), which was originally developed as a way of making quinine
palatable to French foreign legionnaires fighting in malaria-infested parts of
Africa. </span><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: large;">The French have a fondness for a range of herbal-infused
drinks, including Suze, which is flavoured
with gentian, making for a really bitter drink, and St Raphael, which is red,
fruity sweet and only slightly bitter. It’s hard to know if these should be
classed as vermouths or quinquinas. You might also come across Dolin from
Chambéry on the edge of the French alps, which is possibly a “true” vermouth
(£10.49 in Waitrose).</span><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: large;">I wasn’t aware that Spain had also had a part to play in the
vermouth story, but have recently been put right. Peruse the aperitif section
of a Spanish restaurant – Iberica, for example (branches in London, Manchester,
Leeds and Glasgow) lists six vermouths, all from Spain – and you’ll see what I
mean.</span><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: large;">Finally, neither a vermouth, nor a quinquina (or Americano
come to that) Pedrino Alcoholic Tonic (£1.90 for a 200ml bottle from Waitrose)
is, nevertheless, most definitely an aperitif. It’s a blend of Pedro Ximenez
sherry, quinine, citrus and sparkling water that is initially sweet, then
tangy, nicely grippy with a slightly
bitter finish. On its own, it’s a light
alcohol 5.5% - combined with gin, it’s a bit more hardcore. </span><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: large;">Salud! Santé! Cin Cin!</span></div>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><span style="font-size: large;"></span>Heather Doughertyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11992050309481244224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6199918791109779200.post-61416717186100080932016-09-09T06:03:00.000-07:002016-09-09T06:03:39.141-07:00Back to work blues? There's a wine for that<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The French have a phrase, “la rentrée”, that encompasses not
only our own “back to school”, but also the notion of returning to work post
Summer holiday.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">How, having got back into the workaday routine, can we
recapture some of the freewheeling spirit of Summer? Well, in a phrase that I
am hoping will catch on, there’s a wine for that. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo911iifdhddEpD29QyVJ6_wX6qrXcu-u4rJihsXCVCMsH6nNLn9IPp9uKFxEOuPC2LY_RlLmpCEN78w3hUp33gdM5Gg5ZzedvAyttu1XzrGqZxPUt9xzlxXFMmdiGrZyHAvMQsaqMiSc/s1600/IMG_20160826_161659991_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo911iifdhddEpD29QyVJ6_wX6qrXcu-u4rJihsXCVCMsH6nNLn9IPp9uKFxEOuPC2LY_RlLmpCEN78w3hUp33gdM5Gg5ZzedvAyttu1XzrGqZxPUt9xzlxXFMmdiGrZyHAvMQsaqMiSc/s320/IMG_20160826_161659991_HDR.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">It’s a well-known phenomenon that the “best wine you’ve ever
tasted” amid the azure skies and limpid seas of holiday, will magically turn to
dull and ho hum when drunk back in the land of the 9-5 and everyday worries.
But here are some wines from holiday destinations, tried and tested in
laboratory (well, deepest Surrey) conditions, which can give you a reminder of
sunnier days and still work their magic back on home soil. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Barbadillo Solear
Manzanilla – on offer at £7.49 a bottle until 20 September at Waitrose<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I wrote recently that dry Fino and Manzanilla sherries are
one of my favourite summer drinks, so I heartily recommend having a bottle of
this in the fridge. Fresh, very dry and with a hint of nuttiness and of
ozone-y sea air, this is a wonderful aperitif style. Try it with salted almonds
or with gazpacho on a sunny weekend lunch.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Hatzidakis Santorini
Assyrtiko - £12.99 from Waitrose<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This little piece of Greece from the Island of Santorini is
surely the epitome of summer. Assyrtiko is a native Greek variety that reaches
its apogee on the arid, volcanic soils of Santorini. Grapefruit acidity
combines with a juicy stone fruitiness and a whiff of pumice stone to create a flavourful,
refreshing mouthful, with wonderful texture. Anything involving seafood, olive
oil and garlic will shine with this.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Cune Barrel Fermented
Rioja Blanco 2015 - £10.49 from Waitrose; Tanners have the 2014 for £10.30<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">We mostly think of Rioja as a red wine-producing region –
but a warming, oaky red doesn’t quite strike the sunny note we’re after here.
White Rioja is less well known, but it is a great style for easing from Summer
to Autumn. The flavours are fresh with yellow/green plum fruit, but also some
weight and body, as well as spice from the oak fermentation and ageing. This
will stand up well to roast or barbecued chicken.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Whispering Angel 2015
- £15.99 (as part of mixed case of 6 – single bottle £19) from The Wine
Reserve, Cobham; £15 (if buying 6 or more – single bottle £16.99) from Taurus
Wines, Bramley<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Rosé has an almost magical property – it can make any
glimpse of sun, no matter how fleeting, feel instantly summery. Whispering Angel is beautifully pale and
delicate, but with lovely, slightly herbal flavour and real persistence. Try it
with the last of the summer salads, especially if tomatoes are involved.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Feudo di Santa Tresa Frappato
Terre Siciliane IGP 2015 - £9.95 from
organic specialists Vintage Roots <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">A perhaps surprisingly fresh, light and delicate red from
Sicily, made from the native Frappato variety. With its light body and cherry
fruit yet still food-friendly dryness, it is renowned locally as the perfect
red wine for fish, and who am I to disagree? If you get a late summer hot day,
it will take well to chilling.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
Heather Doughertyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11992050309481244224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6199918791109779200.post-67895257823762007502016-08-26T10:02:00.001-07:002016-08-26T10:02:53.671-07:00Champagne - more to it than meets the eye<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">A Champagne house’s Non Vintage blend is their shopfront,
accounting for 80% or more of their sales. Its job is to reflect the house
style, consistently, year in, year out.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Veuve Clicquot, for example, is known for the high
proportion of Pinot Noir in its Brut Non Vintage (the iconic Yellow Label),
usually accounting for just over half of the blend, followed by Chardonnay and
Pinot Meunier. Other grande marque Champagnes with a similar emphasis on Pinot
Noir include Bollinger Special Cuvée and Lanson Black Label Brut NV.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">But if you try these three Champagnes, you’ll find big
differences in style between them. Lanson is incredibly fresh, with lasting,
lemony acidity. Bollinger, by contrast, is full flavoured, rich and spicy.
Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label lies perhaps somewhere between the two, with a mix
of fruit and brioche aromas, combined with structure and length on the palate. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">There is clearly much more to Champagne house styles that just
the blend of grapes involved. Things that also have a key role to play are
where in Champagne those grapes come from: Chardonnay from the heart of the
chalk-rich Côte des Blancs will usually be much more linear, austere even, than
Chardonnay from the more southerly but still chalk-rich area of Montgueux, for
example. The amount and age of the reserve wines, wines from previous harvests
used to smooth out vintage variations and to preserve house style, are also key
considerations. How long the wine ages in the cellar (on its lees) before
release is considered an important element for quality. Finally, the winemaking
itself puts its stamp on the final wine.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">One of the key winemaking decisions is whether to use oak
for fermentation and/or ageing. Bollinger, again, is perhaps the most
well-known Champagne where the use of oak is key to its rich flavour. Moët et
Chandon’s Brut Imperial NV has no oak ageing, in keeping with its fresh, supple
style.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Veuve Clicquot’s Yellow Label Brut NV, has, for the past few
years, contained a very small proportion (as little as 1-2%) of oaked wines.
This development has been driven by their cellar master, Dominique Demarville, who
has pioneered the use of oak in Veuve’s vintage Champagnes since his first
vintage in 2008.</span><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"></span></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilkZy_PqQZ5ZOPiDm_VwxMGE0_aZOLtaMNkNTZbv7mbwafK-mFNFsFHntoCUR3P5D07sfoYSJtyrM1DJsNd5186a1xiiq7MBWdn8ZGV8BEpNwlkMcbkYebRO6JS7CW3S_kNmlGp2LDxSY/s1600/VC-VINTAGEBRUT-2008-FD-BLANC.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilkZy_PqQZ5ZOPiDm_VwxMGE0_aZOLtaMNkNTZbv7mbwafK-mFNFsFHntoCUR3P5D07sfoYSJtyrM1DJsNd5186a1xiiq7MBWdn8ZGV8BEpNwlkMcbkYebRO6JS7CW3S_kNmlGp2LDxSY/s320/VC-VINTAGEBRUT-2008-FD-BLANC.jpg" width="239" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Vintage Champagnes, by definition, must only contain wines
from a single year of production. Dominique’s thinking was to give Veuve’s Vintage
Champagnes some of the spice and complexity that their Non Vintage Champagnes
gain from the addition of older reserve wines. The amount of oak used, even in
the Vintage, is small – only 5% in the newly released 2008. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Can you tell it’s there? Ultimately, it’s impossible to say,
as Veuve Clicquot do not release an oaked and an oaked version of their wines.
However, sampling oak aged and tank aged samples of wines from the 2015
vintage, the effect on the individual wines is pronounced, changing not only
the flavours of the wine, but also its texture, how it feels in the mouth.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Veuve Clicquot Vintage 2008, the finished article, has
aromas of rich, creamy spice and baked apple. It is a full flavoured wine with
lovely depth and fruity, savoury notes. The oak aged element obviously
contributes to the overall picture, but I would be hard pressed to detect any
actual oakiness. I’d be delighted to drink it now, but like all Vintage
Champagnes, it is designed to age and develop further depth and complexity over
the coming decade or more. The Vintage Rosé 2008 is, if anything, even more
delicious, with added depth from the addition of still red Pinot Noir, the
traditional way to make rosé Champagne.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvfDOWlHra2mz9opUJvQRooLJPNvE7SVmSURn6FBOVsa68eX-rn1mad-NQ287CTC-cWFnhQISjOHxLuVoRdHDgUVhVGkOscSWc4x3xn8OjThmVGsxk8qBolIaHI6SCFC7zbIoN1h234Sk/s1600/VC-VINTAGEROSE-2008-FD-BLANC.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", sans-serif; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvfDOWlHra2mz9opUJvQRooLJPNvE7SVmSURn6FBOVsa68eX-rn1mad-NQ287CTC-cWFnhQISjOHxLuVoRdHDgUVhVGkOscSWc4x3xn8OjThmVGsxk8qBolIaHI6SCFC7zbIoN1h234Sk/s320/VC-VINTAGEROSE-2008-FD-BLANC.jpg" width="239" /></a><o:p><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"> </span></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">So, while Champagne can seem like the most frivolous and
easy to enjoy of wines, the work that goes into crafting it is intricate and
always evolving. Something to ponder next time you pop the cork on a bottle. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><i>Veuve Clicquot Brut Yellow Label – RRP £38 (but usually on
offer somewhere – shop around)<o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: 12.65pt;">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><i>Veuve Clicquot
Vintage 2008 – £54.99<o:p></o:p></i></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><i>Veuve Clicquot Rosé Vintage 2008 – £59.99</i></span></div>
Heather Doughertyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11992050309481244224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6199918791109779200.post-11455285091287057762016-08-23T09:17:00.001-07:002016-08-23T09:17:52.948-07:00Summer time is sherry time<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Have I gone mad? What on earth am I doing writing about
Sherry in the summer? Is it not condemned to gather dust on the shelves until
December, when you get in a bottle for granny to sip?</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">But no, for me, sherry is one of THE quintessential summer
drinks, especially the light, dry styles – fino and manzanilla. I buy a bottle and
stash it in the fridge, waiting for a balmy evening to arrive, then enjoy it in
the sun with tapas. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Both fino and manzanilla start out life as a rather ordinary
white wine, made from Palomino grapes grown in the chalk-rich albariza soils of
Jerez. The magic that transforms them from ho hum to aperitif par excellence
comes from fortification by grape spirit and ageing in barrel for three or more
years.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Sherry ageing is special for a couple of reasons. Firstly it
uses a solera system, so that new wines are added at the metaphorical “top” of the
stack of barrels. As new wines are added to these barrels, some of the older
wines are moved down the stack to make room. Wine that is ready to be bottled
is drawn from barrels at the “bottom” of the stack, which contain a mix of
wines with a range of ages. So you can never really say exactly how old a
solera-aged sherry is, as it is a blend of all of the wines in the solera, mostly
the younger ones, but including tiny amounts of much older wines. This helps to
give sherry its consistent character and adds characteristic complexity.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The other oddity of sherry ageing for finos and manzanillas
is that they are aged in not quite full barrels where a layer of yeast (or
flor) develops on the top, imparting a unique dryness and body to the wine over
time.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Both fino and manzanilla are made in this way, but manzanilla
is distinguished by being made and aged around the port of Sanlúcar. It is generally
the lightest and driest of the finos, with a faint marine tang.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">What to drink with fino? The Andalucians have a handy
aide-memoire to help: If it swims, serve fino. If it flies, serve amontillado.
If it runs, serve oloroso.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx4l_Ipbu-5kJAtZFQvdXbY1_DrOmHdvn9kf43K889CG_Riy4p3Av5fAmrDAsepKixetiILKPFQaO6XTfk_SPi1IB7G6QWiB07FVjbXuAW8R-41w3N9IIXstUSOAza8upVjVLBBZByJHE/s1600/tapas+and+fino.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx4l_Ipbu-5kJAtZFQvdXbY1_DrOmHdvn9kf43K889CG_Riy4p3Av5fAmrDAsepKixetiILKPFQaO6XTfk_SPi1IB7G6QWiB07FVjbXuAW8R-41w3N9IIXstUSOAza8upVjVLBBZByJHE/s320/tapas+and+fino.JPG" width="269" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I agree that fishy things go wonderfully with the dry
tanginess of fino. Spanish-style anchovies (boquerones) and squid have no
better drinking partner. But I also crave an ice cold glass of it with a range
of tapas – gazpacho, tortilla, olives….I could go on.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">En Rama styles of fino have become fashionable recently, and
with good reason. These unfined and unfiltered wines (en rama means raw) are
like regular fino with the volume turned up. They are the sexier, more
flamboyant fino brother. Deeper in colour, they have richer flavours and feel
weightier, yet still bone dry. This makes them even more food friendly and you
could easily keep sipping this throughout your meal.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">What about the fortification? Aren’t these wines are bit
high in alcohol to drink in the same way as other wines? Finos are fortified
only until they reach around 15%, so they are more alcoholic than most white
wines, but not much. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">So please, liberate these sherries from the confines of
Christmas. They are great food wines, perfect for summer and a brilliant
bargain to boot. And please do treat them like wines – keep them in the fridge
and, once open, finish within 2-3 days.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_GXO1RCWG8Ti5A1I0qjYi1UkrVCKa0OyQZlfa-G9N50gMUyQoHriHC9P0s9NujBWEMWOUnCjmQ_TmD5pDRaAT0NNbcGB05HkNzOsEY5ImeYkyGYbMSWGqF5VZHjHLJ1IOi13SkHJ3OAo/s1600/tio+pepe.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_GXO1RCWG8Ti5A1I0qjYi1UkrVCKa0OyQZlfa-G9N50gMUyQoHriHC9P0s9NujBWEMWOUnCjmQ_TmD5pDRaAT0NNbcGB05HkNzOsEY5ImeYkyGYbMSWGqF5VZHjHLJ1IOi13SkHJ3OAo/s320/tio+pepe.JPG" width="159" /></a><o:p><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"> </span></o:p><b><u><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Fino</span></u></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><u><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span></u></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Tio Pepe Fino – around
£10-11.50, widely available<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Gonzalez Byass’ Tio Pepe is probably the best known fino and
with good reason. This is textbook stuff with light body, crisp-feeling
flavours hinting at apple and bread.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Hennings Wine Merchants have Tio Pepe Fino En Rama at £9.99
for a half bottle. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><u><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Manzanilla<o:p></o:p></span></u></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Hidalgo La Gitana
Manzanilla - £8 from Waitrose<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This bottle looks and tastes the part, and has a lovely hint
of saltiness giving it extra refreshment value. Incredible value.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Also be sure to check out supermarkets’ own label sherries.
They are generally brilliant value, made by some of the most famous names in
Jerez. Waitrose’s own label Manzanilla Fina is just £6.99 a bottle and scooped
a silver medal in this year’s International Wine Challenge.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
Heather Doughertyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11992050309481244224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6199918791109779200.post-12261990812874918952016-07-30T11:24:00.003-07:002016-07-30T11:24:41.799-07:00Best wines for summer barbecues and parties<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">It’s always tricky, working out when to recommend wines for
hot, summer days, when so often summer itself can be a slippery concept.
Nevertheless, the schools have broken up, the Olympics loom: the calendar
points to summer, regardless of what the weather might be doing.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Don’t be afraid of
the fridge for reds<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Refreshment is a key aspect of wines for drinking at any
time, but never more so than on a hot day. Don’t be afraid to chill any red
wine for a short while (say 30 mins) before serving it. Reds are generally
designed to be drunk at rather less than modern room temperature, and much less
than the ambient temperature on a warm day, so a quick chill will make it both
more refreshing and bring out the more delicate flavours.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Fizz<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Le Monferrine Asti
DOCG - £5.50 at Morrison’s<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Here’s a guilty pleasure. It’s sweet, it’s fizzy, with a
rich grapey flavour that you can serve really chilled to go with picnic-y fruit
puddings…or instead of.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Cava Juvé & Camps
Selección Reserva 2013 - £11.49 from Waitrose<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I’m the first to admit that I’m not a huge Cava fan, but I
have a soft spot for this producer, renowned for ageing their Cavas for longer
(much longer than the law dictates) on the lees – over 24 months in this case.
Apple and citrus fruits combine on the palate, which has lovely freshness.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDHpAoJyG8DGdQ-0VL6NPK5h8YHZA6QS8I5Xm7W9cDvS1c4VVJvgPQdSSF8VcNbWzgGrOeHavFegE7A42OH966D9XKz_NJWjHszamT_iRHfAyNgpXsMeVIlRRJ3mMYAEjHcil-RoZN3MU/s1600/IMG_20160722_142057893.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDHpAoJyG8DGdQ-0VL6NPK5h8YHZA6QS8I5Xm7W9cDvS1c4VVJvgPQdSSF8VcNbWzgGrOeHavFegE7A42OH966D9XKz_NJWjHszamT_iRHfAyNgpXsMeVIlRRJ3mMYAEjHcil-RoZN3MU/s320/IMG_20160722_142057893.jpg" width="180" /></a></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">White<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">If refreshment is what you’re after, then two white wine
styles readily spring to mind: Chablis and Sauvignon Blanc.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Chablis William Fèvre
“La Maladière” 2013 - £13.49 mix six price at Majestic<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This is “proper” Chablis. Fresh, light and incisive, but in
no way short of flavour. It’s not so much about the lemon and green apple fruit
as the texture and feel of the wine. This will quench any thirst.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Dog Point Marlborough
Sauvignon Blanc 2015 - £13.50 from The Wine Society; £15.50 from Winedirect;
£19.99 from Laithwaite’s; also available at independent merchants<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This Sauvignon Blanc has developed a dedicated fan base –
and with good reason. At a comparative tasting of Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs
earlier this year, Dog Point stood out as the most classic expression of the
style. It has expressive but balanced flavours, with grapefruit and white
pepper. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Rosé<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><b>Pure de Mirabeau
Côtes de Provence Rosé 2015 - £12.99 from Waitrose</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">A quintessential Provence rosé, yet it is made by Brit
abroad, Stephen Cronk. This is delightfully pale in colour, light and elegant,
but with body and flavour. A delight for a sunny evening. Rosés are a great
match for all manner of salads, coping admirably with the sharp/oily
combination of vinaigrette dressings.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">M Signature Champagne
Rosé - £20 at Morrison’s<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Sometimes you just have to have Champagne and, to capture
the spirit of summer, it also has to be pink. You can quickly empty your wallet
on rosé Champagne, but here’s one that’s more friendly to those of us who are
more flash than cash. Morrison’s own label Champagnes are both good value and
classy and this rosé would make a lovely accompaniment to nibbles/smoked salmon
and the like.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Red<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Waitrose Southern
French Grenache 2015 - £6.49 from Waitrose<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Hardly an inspiring name for a wine, but this is well suited
to a summer barbecue with its ripe, sweet-tasting fruit. I would definitely
give this a quick blast in the fridge before cracking it open on a warm
evening.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Recchia Bardolino
2015 - £7.99 from Waitrose<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Bardolino is a hugely unfashionable style of red wine: pale
red colour that is almost rosé and with very light body. Often in the mass
produced versions it can also mean sharp acidity and an unappealing weediness.
But this, with its pale ruby colour and soft, cherryish fruit is just made for
summer picnics. In other words, a perfect summer red.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
Heather Doughertyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11992050309481244224noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6199918791109779200.post-9391476593488386682016-07-20T08:46:00.000-07:002016-07-20T08:46:46.126-07:00Taking Le Tour through wines<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Looking through my archives I find that almost exactly four
years ago to the week I was writing that England had crashed out of the Euros
and that it was time to train our beer (or wine) goggles on Wimbledon. Plus ça
change, eh? Though we now face an altogether more serious exit from Europe, rather
than just a sporting one.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The wine trade was (is?) broadly pro-Remain and there’s no
doubt that imported wines will become more expensive in the coming months,
thanks to the falling value of the pound against the Euro (that word again) and
other currencies.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Is there something more positive to focus on? As I write,
Andy Murray has yet to complete his semi-final match, so I can’t know whether
Wimbledon has been a case for celebration or disappointment.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">But the annual Tour de France still has a while to run and
there is actual British success in the form of multiple stage winner Mark
Cavendish and the prospect of more from Chris Froome in the overall
classification.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">So it’s time to drinkalong-a-Tour with my handy guide to some
of the main contenders and what to drink while cheering them on:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The Froome Dog - UK<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">English sparkling wine’s top dog seems a fitting tribute to
the two-time Tour winner. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Nyetimber Blanc de
Blancs 2009 - £35.95 from slurp.co.uk, RRP £41 from independent merchants<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Beautiful baked apple fruit with a hint of cream and honey –
but with fine acidity holding it all together. Truly delicious.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Alejandro Valverde –
Spain<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I’ll side-step the obvious choice of Rioja and plump instead
for something off the beaten track.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Cien y Pico Doble
Pasta 2011 - £12.99 from The Wine Reserve (Cobham) and other independents<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This is not a wine for the fainthearted. From old bush vines
(Cien y Pico, meaning one hundred and something apparently refers to their age)
in the almost desert-dry conditions of central Spain comes this intensely
coloured and flavoured red. It packs a punch of Intense blueberry fruit with
plenty of flavour and structure (and 14.5% alcohol). <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Nairo Quintana –
Colombia<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">A more tricky proposition, this. Colombia is known for a few
things, but wine is not one of them. The national drink is Aguardiente (from
the Latin for fire water- be warned) a blend of sugar cane spirit, anise and
water, making it something akin to Pernod or Ouzo. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">If you’d rather stick to wine, a compromise on something
from the high altitude vineyards of Argentina seems apposite for a master
climber like Quintana. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Catena Malbec 2013 -
£9.99 mix six price at Majestic<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Catena were the pioneers of high altitude wine making in
Argentina and their wines are still modern classics. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Warren Barguil,
Thibault Pinot (nice name) and Romain Bardet - France<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">These three riders are the home nation’s best hopes for
success. The biggest success story in French wine right now is Provence rosé
and you’ll be spoilt for choice on merchants’ shelves.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Mirabeau Côtes de
Provence Rosé 2015 – usually £9.99, down to £7.79 until 26 July at Waitrose<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This delightful pale pink has delicate fruit flavours and is
light yet flavoursome with a slightly savoury finish. And it’s just scooped a
Gold Medal at the International Wine Challenge, making it something of a
bargain.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Tejay Van Garderen<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The man with possibly the silliest name of the Tour hails
from the US. And you can’t get more American than Zinfandel.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Brazin Old Vine
Zinfandel 2013 £12.99, down to £9.69 until 26 July at Waitrose; £11.50 at The
Wine Society<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">For a grape that is renowned for making big-boned, powerful
almost Port-like red wines, this has a surprising delicacy and freshness to it
– but don’t worry, it also has plenty of blackberry fruit with a dash of
vanilla, as well as 14.5% alcohol.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Now you’re all set. Allez allez allez! </span><o:p></o:p></div>
Heather Doughertyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11992050309481244224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6199918791109779200.post-83999765427103306742016-07-04T08:05:00.000-07:002016-07-04T08:07:31.466-07:00That's the way to do it - building a French wine brand<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">If there’s one thing that French winemakers can’t do, it’s
create big successful brands, right? Well, maybe not…</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">It’s true that French wine is traditionally governed by the
dictates of the Appellation Contrôlée laws, so that AC (or AOP nowadays) wines
are labelled according to their geographical origin. This is fine for really
well known ACs/AOPs like Bordeaux and Champagne which are, in effect, brands
which transcend the geographical nature of the regulations. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">But what about AOP
Côteaux du Giennois? Or AOP Côtes de Toul maybe, or AOP Tursan? A good number
of the over 300 wine AOPs in France are househould names, but many more, like
these ones, are not. Consumers (and even wine trade folk) cannot be expected to
know where they all are and what style of wine will be in the bottle. And why
should understanding wine be such a difficult business anyway?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Building a commercial brand often means departing from the
strict regulations of the region’s AOP. Consumers want to see a name that they
are familiar with, which provides a feeling of comfort and security - without
the need to understand French wine law. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The Vin de Pays category, so successful in the 1980s and
90s, did act as a kind of brand. The vast majority were from that huge swathe
of vineyard areas in the south, collectively known as Languedoc-Roussillon. Vin
de Pays d’Oc was a boon to wine drinkers: often varietally labelled, usually
good value red, white and rosé wines that were easy to understand and
appreciate.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Now, however, Vin de Pays is no more and wines should
instead be labelled as IGP (Indication Géographique Protégée). Though
Languedoc-Roussillon producers can also put the words “Pays d’Oc” on the label,
as a nod to the good old days of Vin de Pays d’Oc.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">French producers who want to include grape varieties outside
the rules of the AOP can often use the IGP as an alternative. For those who
want to blend between regions, something that is common in the New World, the
catch-all Vin de France category is a useful support. And yet thus far, there
have been few truly successful French wine brands.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">One French wine company which is doing better than many at
building brands is Badet Clément. You may not have heard of the name, but you
may well have seen their Les Jamelles wines in the Co-op; or perhaps come
across one of their Abbotts & Delaunay range on a restaurant wine list.
They also have a range of other brands which are more directed towards other
markets across Europe and beyond. Their total annual production of 15.6 million
bottles gives you an idea of the scale of their operation.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK6VlESP_pg5WbDstch3pe5ko_4PkLyRl7BTckcL1HTLXonVsETFAEAt9fX8Si7FEufMGwApTO-_iqWOXaKMu6gQnOHWNMiHFVv1MQhLcL6P0GtFD05kXoCYYaas13X2C7CdfHb0LGElM/s1600/Catherine++et+Laurent+DELAUNAY.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="189" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK6VlESP_pg5WbDstch3pe5ko_4PkLyRl7BTckcL1HTLXonVsETFAEAt9fX8Si7FEufMGwApTO-_iqWOXaKMu6gQnOHWNMiHFVv1MQhLcL6P0GtFD05kXoCYYaas13X2C7CdfHb0LGElM/s320/Catherine++et+Laurent+DELAUNAY.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Surprisingly, perhaps, all this is the work of a husband and
wife team, Laurent and Catherine Delaunay, who recently celebrated the
twentieth anniversary of their business. Of course Badet Clément is more than
Laurent and Catherine, who now employ 50 people and boast a shiny new winery to
facilitate even further growth in future.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Their Les Jamelles wines are a neat range of varietally
labelled wines (all IGP) with plenty of easy-going consumer appeal at keen
prices.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
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£5.99 until 12 July (usually £6.99) at the Co-op<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">A Viognier for people who don’t like the variety’s richness
and weight, which can tend to flabbiness. This has good fresh acidity and juicy
fruit with just a hint of peach.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Les Jamelles Syrah -
£5.99 until 12 July (usually £6.99) at the Co-op<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Soft, ripe Syrah with a mix of red and black fruit
characters that speaks of the warm south, but with a good brightness and
freshness too.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Les Jamelles Réserve
Mourvèdre £7.49 at the Co-op <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT3V4YIck1zm_ILsWS-Mu8yIPI0ff8L8IELlQevBaRifAVKAENdTvg4QLuVQpAoHTq76dau96L9RVIBQ-s2qc5GXyk1uyi-oMF-rYYDBX7fatQwR7tU1ztChlp4s_w5Nz278NEldlzxtQ/s1600/Les+Jamelles+R%25C3%25A9serve+Mourv%25C3%25A8dre+2013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT3V4YIck1zm_ILsWS-Mu8yIPI0ff8L8IELlQevBaRifAVKAENdTvg4QLuVQpAoHTq76dau96L9RVIBQ-s2qc5GXyk1uyi-oMF-rYYDBX7fatQwR7tU1ztChlp4s_w5Nz278NEldlzxtQ/s320/Les+Jamelles+R%25C3%25A9serve+Mourv%25C3%25A8dre+2013.jpg" width="73" /></a><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">My favourite of the range, this has bags of brooding, black
fruit with some herbal character in the background.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Heather Doughertyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11992050309481244224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6199918791109779200.post-20477203525127891462016-06-20T08:03:00.001-07:002016-06-20T08:03:47.675-07:00Champagne - beyond the brands<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Champagne, like no other wine, is dominated by brands.
Veuve, Moët, Bolly…I don’t even need to spell out the full name for you to know
who I mean.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Brands give the reassurance of familiarity, consistency of
quality and a certain cachet. And you don’t need me to tell you to buy them.
What you do need from a wine columnist, is a tip for under the radar Champagnes
that offer great quality and that over deliver in terms of value for money.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">One that springs to mind is Champagne Mailly Grand Cru – a
co-operative based in the Grand Cru village of Mailly in the Montagne de Reims.
The Wine Reserve in Cobham stocks a range of their high quality, Pinot
Noir-dominant, big-boned Champagnes starting at £29.99 for their Grand Cru Brut
NV.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This week I had the chance to taste through the range of
another Champagne that is not a household name, Champagne de Castelnau.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">All Champagnes look to establish a point of difference and
in the case of de Castelnau it’s the long lees ageing. For their Brut Réserve
Non Vintage blend, that means over six years.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">What is lees ageing?</span></b> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The Champagne method involves making first a still wine – or
in fact a range of still wines. The different grape varieties (Chardonnay,
Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier) and different vineyard parcels will usually be
fermented separately. The resulting wines are then reviewed once their
fermentation has finished, to assemble the wines to create the desired blend,
or cuvée. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The blend is then put into bottle, along with yeast and
sugar, in order to undergo a second fermentation – this is the one that will
transform the still wine into one with bubbles. Fermentation lasts a few weeks,
but all Champagnes must then be left in the bottle for a period of time
(legally 12 months at a minimum) before disgorgement of the yeast sediment and
re-corking. During that time in bottle, the wine will interact with the lees
(dead yeast cells), thereby developing additional flavours and complexity.
Champagne makers who want their wines to express youthful fruitiness and
freshness in their wines will generally age them for a shorter time on the
lees. Those looking for greater depth and complexity will, naturally, want to
age their Champagnes for longer – sometimes much longer.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I’m no accountant, but even I can work out that long ageing
has a financial cost – not being able to sell your Champagne until it is over
six years old is going to impact your cash flow. Champagnes like these cannot
be made cheaply or quickly.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Where to find de Castelnau
Champagnes?<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">They are stocked by restaurants and independent wine
merchants. Spirited Wines (<a href="http://www.spiritedwines.co.uk/">http://www.spiritedwines.co.uk/</a>)
and Nicolas wine shops list the full range of de Castelnau Champagne.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh05ppvWGmhnDG8jAFT_Oxir4RTB1XxMy1N4xXfgMR74dNNXxMObaEm7xZeU554Ao1PIodjp2VTidXDo9Ysj3eysRtF146INyj7j2iaSFJFM_qdQrBEBdxQYdeA6t5gK5x0wRDq7V-bASI/s1600/Champagne+de+Castelnau+Brut+R%25C3%25A9serve.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh05ppvWGmhnDG8jAFT_Oxir4RTB1XxMy1N4xXfgMR74dNNXxMObaEm7xZeU554Ao1PIodjp2VTidXDo9Ysj3eysRtF146INyj7j2iaSFJFM_qdQrBEBdxQYdeA6t5gK5x0wRDq7V-bASI/s320/Champagne+de+Castelnau+Brut+R%25C3%25A9serve.png" width="87" /></a><b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">De Castelnau Brut
Réserve NV - £29.99 Spirited Wines/Nicolas<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This is what they like to call “a Vintage soul in a Brut Non
Vintage body”, with its complexity and depth of flavour. It makes for a very
versatile style with hints of wild mushroom, toastiness and nuts.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu0oAIyw1tnQJC3uVGq-WLLyzl2FzToFuVW5pv7v6yOL10HfqfZrEgxIVn7lgyKCuXzXKTkYbSP0BkB2RPvMbk9DLzkO0AF5gvaK8DzZJvdckqP6f08Hz4rTZb1o1GsGrwL5aIOoyYECg/s1600/Champagne+de+Castelnau+Mill%25C3%25A9sim%25C3%25A9+2002.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu0oAIyw1tnQJC3uVGq-WLLyzl2FzToFuVW5pv7v6yOL10HfqfZrEgxIVn7lgyKCuXzXKTkYbSP0BkB2RPvMbk9DLzkO0AF5gvaK8DzZJvdckqP6f08Hz4rTZb1o1GsGrwL5aIOoyYECg/s320/Champagne+de+Castelnau+Mill%25C3%25A9sim%25C3%25A9+2002.png" width="213" /></a><b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">De Castelnau Brut
Vintage 2002 - £39 Spirited Wines/Nicolas<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">2002 is regarded as a great year for Champagne, so this is
one for real Champagne lovers to search out. With eleven years on the lees,
this has developed a range of quite savoury flavours – it is a gastronomic
Champagne to serve with food.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtkhHBqUDWx8KpONXYfHz1NXzFdF-11xbGH4SWQE9-9Atb_5_VgVzrF48mIaUXh55sNYciyI9_INUKQQWXgdQaM_OstG8hNHmSIL8HgCqkSQuVCzB-_q9wc4Oz2vIiVBKY3a8CrJhXyPU/s1600/20160609_134507.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtkhHBqUDWx8KpONXYfHz1NXzFdF-11xbGH4SWQE9-9Atb_5_VgVzrF48mIaUXh55sNYciyI9_INUKQQWXgdQaM_OstG8hNHmSIL8HgCqkSQuVCzB-_q9wc4Oz2vIiVBKY3a8CrJhXyPU/s320/20160609_134507.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">In order to signal their high quality credentials, and to
mark their centenary in 2016, de Castelnau are launching a prestige cuvée,
dubbed Hors Catégorie, the name a nod to the toughest climbs of the Tour de
France. The style is a departure from their house style, with “just” five years
on the lees and with a blend of three different years in the cuvée. This finely
etched Champagne is made in tiny quantities, in eye-catching packaging. If you
spy a bottle, it can be yours for £85. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Heather Doughertyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11992050309481244224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6199918791109779200.post-9039192918335473052016-06-15T03:51:00.001-07:002016-06-15T03:51:14.923-07:00Romanian wines have come a long way<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Sometimes I am brought up sharply by the realisation of just
how much change has gone on in Eastern Europe since the fall of Communism.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">My children (13 and 14) are very used to rubbing shoulders
with tourists from all over the world, including Eastern Europe, on trips to
London. So when I tell them that, until the 1990s, for citizens of Poland,
Latvia, Romania and elsewhere, free travel to Western Europe did not exist,
they have a look of blank incomprehension. The idea that a government could
forbid its own people from visiting whichever country they liked is beyond
their understanding.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Travel was only one area of life that was state-controlled
in the not so distant past. The wine industry was too - and industry it
certainly was, with no reward for quality but a utilitarian focus on maximising
production, just like any other agricultural product in Soviet-era Eastern
Europe. In Romania this meant planting vines on unsuitable land and planting
low quality (but high yielding) hybrid varieties.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Now these countries are working hard to re-build their wine
industries, based on quality this time - and on making wines that people actually want
to drink.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Romania has been one of the most successful in the new, open
era and remains the biggest wine producer in Eastern Europe. The vineyard area
may be 20-30% smaller now than it was under Communism, but there is an
undoubted ambition and pride in what is made there – though we see very little
of it here in the UK, as only 3-4% is exported.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Romanian wine producers in recent years have tended to rely
on producing good value versions of international style wines from
internationally recognized varieties, most notably Pinot Noir. Now, however,
more producers are emerging who are also intent on building a reputation for their
store of native grape varieties, which represent around half of all plantings
in Romania. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqjL4JoSHjngnh1II58AXZ2kEsJEGFdySfBiRcj_8kKps_SGXTUi8FO6XHlMO7aeNrqkemc8TEpegyXec38vyMClKnb7WoC4nirazfo0sUAj7t0raKyEuCJYZpjQL_pismCSrh1ZUOmxA/s1600/BRADSHAW+PINOT+NOIR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqjL4JoSHjngnh1II58AXZ2kEsJEGFdySfBiRcj_8kKps_SGXTUi8FO6XHlMO7aeNrqkemc8TEpegyXec38vyMClKnb7WoC4nirazfo0sUAj7t0raKyEuCJYZpjQL_pismCSrh1ZUOmxA/s320/BRADSHAW+PINOT+NOIR.jpg" width="205" /></a><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Cramele Recas, one of the country’s biggest and most forward
thinking wineries, straddles both these camps, and with some success. They are
responsible for producing attractively labelled, consumer-friendly wines made
from both international varieties and native Romanian ones – as well as more
ambitious wines.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Bradshaw Pinot Noir
2014 - £5 from Asda<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Recas make some of the most appealing (and almost bizarrely
cheap) Pinot Noir in Romania. It has lightweight, cherry fruit with real Pinot
character. Don’t expect Grand Cru Burgundy at this price, but it certainly over
delivers for the price.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw-Dn-QuLSUzr_sfvNv5HclQQV5Wfj0GmIat98CkJ4mi_v7Bd5Gelzrgeu9cmbM-6HClE9bmDwrndMNTE4TueHpjXlzcMc4QQ9rvhDFptbmPF2P4fPWold-vg7HnDaZZIebAHiuPik6oo/s1600/recas+wine+atlas+feteasca+regala.jpe" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw-Dn-QuLSUzr_sfvNv5HclQQV5Wfj0GmIat98CkJ4mi_v7Bd5Gelzrgeu9cmbM-6HClE9bmDwrndMNTE4TueHpjXlzcMc4QQ9rvhDFptbmPF2P4fPWold-vg7HnDaZZIebAHiuPik6oo/s1600/recas+wine+atlas+feteasca+regala.jpe" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The Wine Atlas
Feteasca Regala 2015 - £4.97 from Asda<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Another clever Recas label (this one makes me think of
inter-war film posters) with a neat wine in the bottle. You can see why
Romania’s native varieties will not be troubling the likes of Chardonnay and
Shiraz on the global stage: Feteasca Regala, a white grape, is never going to
trip off the tongue quite so easily. However, I like the juicy, ripe, fruit and
crisp finish of this, another absolute bargain. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Prince Stirbey, by contrast, is a producer determined to
champion the native varieties of Romania.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc-udI72MLROh7J3m1T7fXGmd7T13-ZdBUT9-2bK1u1ph4SQe3P0P9e9cvvAHA1KT0hI8CMzOjC0cNG7iCw3yqebYa8cmPAx33xSNU30NicSR66vcTSKbvWXAZnJeQqWFuCa0xWX0XhnQ/s1600/20160615_114625.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc-udI72MLROh7J3m1T7fXGmd7T13-ZdBUT9-2bK1u1ph4SQe3P0P9e9cvvAHA1KT0hI8CMzOjC0cNG7iCw3yqebYa8cmPAx33xSNU30NicSR66vcTSKbvWXAZnJeQqWFuCa0xWX0XhnQ/s320/20160615_114625.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Prince Stirbey
Tamaioasa Romaneasca 2015 - £9.50 from The Wine Society<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Tamaioasa, (often known as “the frankincense grape”) is a
local clone of Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, a variety known primarily for
making lusciously sweet wines with floral, grapey aromas. This, though, is a
dry wine, with just hints of exotic rose petal and spice aromas. It is dry and
quite fleshy, without being flabby. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Prince Stirbey
Feteasca Regala 2015 - £12.50 from Oddbins<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Meaning “royal maiden”, Feteasca Regala is Romania’s most
widely planted grape variety. It too has some Muscat-like aromas, with a lovely
textured palate and a pleasantly dry finish, thanks to the variety’s natural
tannins. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Heather Doughertyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11992050309481244224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6199918791109779200.post-15153915767415868732016-05-24T05:05:00.003-07:002016-05-24T05:05:47.381-07:00The state of the (English wine) nation<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Every year London hosts the English Wine Producers’ tasting,
featuring hundreds of English - and Welsh - wine, though no Scottish wine (yet)
that I’m aware of. I manage to get along to the tasting most years and there is
no denying that the overall quality of the wines on show is getting better and
better as the years pass.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Proof, if any were needed, that English sparkling wine is
really coming of age, is that the Champenois have a bit of a bee in their
bonnet about it. Last year, apparently, they were all abuzz about the threat of
Prosecco; this year, it’s English fizz that is exercising them. And I’ve
already written about Champagne Taittinger’s investment in vineyard land in a
joint venture in Kent (see Surrey Advertiser 22 April edition or read it online
here: <a href="http://yourliquidassets.blogspot.co.uk/2016/05/the-irrestistible-rise-of-english-wines.html">http://yourliquidassets.blogspot.co.uk/2016/05/the-irrestistible-rise-of-english-wines.html</a>.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Some styles of wine are always going to be a challenge to
produce in the UK: it’s just not possible to reliably make red wines in our
cool climate. There are usually some red wines made, somewhere in England,
every year. But it’s unusual for the same producer to be able to make a red
wine, year in , year out.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">New World winemakers often talk about some of their wines
coming from cool climates, but it’s all relative. They should stand in an
English vineyard on the North Downs in March if they want to know what cool
climate really means.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Still white and rosé wines are a much safer bet in our
climate, but it is, still, the sparkling wines that are England’s vinous crowning
glory.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">My thoughts following the English Wine Producers’ tasting
this year:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; text-indent: -18pt;">Red wines, even in the favourable conditions of
2014, are still a niche style (together red and rosé wines account for just 10%
of total production).</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; text-indent: -18pt;">English still rosés do best when they do not try
to copy other countries, but develop their own style, with the emphasis on
delicate, red fruit, a tiny bit of sweetness to balance the crisp acidity and
lowish alcohol.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; text-indent: -18pt;">There remain too many still white wines that are
rather lollyish and floral – a legacy of using Germanic hybrid grape varieties
designed to withstand the cold weather.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; text-indent: -18pt;">Sparkling wines are still the pinnacle of our
national wine scene, witnessed by the huge medal haul achieved in international
competition this year. Some of the best producers have been at it for a while (such
as Nyetimber and Ridgeview), but there are some really exciting newcomers too,
including Hattingley Valley and Exton Park.</span></li>
</ul>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Here is a smattering of some of my favourite wines from the
tasting:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Greyfriars Pinot Gris
2014 - £13.50, available from the vineyard/online<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Mike and Hilary Wagstaff took over this vineyard in 2010 and
have been focused on growth and quality improvements ever since. This has
lovely Pinot Gris juicy stone fruit with a touch of spice. It’s low in alcohol
(11.5%) and pleasingly dry. Check out their sparkling Blanc de Blancs too.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Chapel Down English
Rose 2015 - £10.49 from Majestic, £10.99 from Waitrose and elsewhere<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I think the Rose – not Rosé – in the name is quite
intentional. Chapel Down are a long-established name in the English wine scene
and manage to make consistently good still wines, as well as sparkling. This
Pinot Noir dominant blend makes for a lovely combination of strawberry fruit
and a whiff of English hedgerows in Maytime. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Nyetimber Classic
Cuvée 2010 – widely available at around £33<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">One of the pioneers and still showing its class. I like the
way they release their wines with a bit of age – the naturally high acidity in
English wine means they benefit from the mellowing effect of more time maturing
on the lees and in the cellar before drinking. This is a blend of the classic
Champagne varieties of Pinot Noir (just over half the blend), with Chardonnay
and a little Pinot Meunier. It’s a classically rich style with baked apple and
bready flavours.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Where to find English wines<o:p></o:p></span></u></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">English wine lovers should get themselves to a branch of
Waitrose or Marks & Spencer. Both have been supporters for a while, but are
both in the process of radically increasing the number of English wines on
their shelves.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">English Wine Week<o:p></o:p></span></u></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">You can get up close and personal with English wines during
English Wine Week, which takes place from Saturday 28<sup>th</sup> May to
Sunday 5<sup>th</sup> June. Details of events, vineyard open days and more can
be found here: <a href="http://www.englishwineproducers.co.uk/news/eww/">http://www.englishwineproducers.co.uk/news/eww/</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Heather Doughertyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11992050309481244224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6199918791109779200.post-11573960166920854772016-05-24T05:00:00.000-07:002016-05-24T05:00:31.588-07:00The other Cabernet<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">In most wine lovers’ books, Cabernet is shorthand for
Cabernet Sauvignon, one of wine’s global superstar varieties. However, there is
another Cabernet, rather less celebrated, that deserves more recognition – and which
might just be on its way to coming out from the shadows: Cabernet Franc.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">With such similar names, you might imagine that these two Cabs
are related, and you would be right. It might surprise you to know, though,
that it is Cabernet Franc that is the genetic daddy, and Cabernet Sauvignon the
young pretender. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Cabernet Franc is an ancient variety that seems to have
originated in the Spanish part of the Basque country and at some point it
headed north to Bordeaux, where it retains a stronghold. Once there it got
together with Sauvignon Blanc and the result was Cabernet Sauvignon. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Bordeaux is all about blends, so Cabernet Franc is usually found
in a supporting role there and is rarely the headline act, even if its
influence is key. Further north, in the Loire Valley, Cabernet Franc gets to
sing solo in famous red wine appellations such as Chinon, Bourgueil and Saumur
Champigny.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">New World winemakers have not, it has to be said, fallen
over themselves in their rush to plant Cabernet Franc. But those who have
tried, and got it right, are making some delicious, fresh, perfumed and juicy
wines that could be stars in the making.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Here are some of my favourite Cabernet Francs, ranging from
their French homeland to the foothills of the Andes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Les Nivières Saumur
Cabernet Franc 2014 - £8.99, Waitrose<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This is an ever-reliable Waitrose stalwart that demonstrates
the variety’s appealingly fresh, sappy red fruit character. This is a perfect
summer lunch wine (come on sun!).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Domaine des Roches
Neuves “Terres Chaudes” 2013 – around £22 from Les Caves de Pyrène (Guildford)
and other independent merchants<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This is the other face of Cabernet Franc – here there is
elegance, but also ageworthiness and power from a leading organic and
biodynamic estate in Saumur-Champigny. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Pulenta Estate Gran
Cabernet Franc 2011 - £22.95 from Winedirect.co.uk, £28 from Harvey Nichols<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">This Argentinian beauty is the New World Cab Franc that
really made me sit up and take notice. This is ripe but so refined, with
elegant, layered fruit that unfolds on the palate. A stunner, and a great
demonstration of what a bright future this variety could have in Argentina. For
a more wallet-friendly introduction, search out <b>Bodega Atamisque Serbal Cabernet Franc 2015</b>, £11.99 from New Forest
Wines, Fareham Wine Cellar and The Guildford Wine Company.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">If you are still in any doubt as to the quality and pedigree
of Cabernet Franc, then I suggest you pick up a bottle of legendary St-Emilion producer,
Château Cheval Blanc 2000 (47% Cabernet Franc, the rest Merlot) next time
you’re browsing the shelves of Hedonism Wine in Mayfair. I tasted it at Cheval
Blanc three years ago and it was quite sublime – and a bottle can be yours for a
smidge under £1300.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
Heather Doughertyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11992050309481244224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6199918791109779200.post-11442929044500768462016-05-17T10:00:00.000-07:002016-05-17T10:00:05.034-07:00The irrestistible rise of English wines<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Something happened a few months ago, back in the dark days
of December, something that had been whispered about for years. If you aren’t a
keen follower of UK wine trade news you might have missed it, but the fact is
that a Champagne house has finally invested in English vineyard land.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Taittinger, one of the most well-respected family-owned
Champagne houses, has purchased 69 hectares of land in Kent, which will be
planted with the three classic Champagne varieties of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir
and Pinot Meunier, with the aim of eventually producing 300,000 bottles a year
of sparkling wine to be marketed under the name Domaine Evremond. Taittinger is
the largest investor in the project, which also involves Hatch Mansfield, their
UK importer, as well as other investors.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">While the launch of a new English vineyard dedicated to
producing high quality sparkling wine is not exactly news nowadays, the fact
that the money and expertise behind it comes from Champagne itself is highly
significant. For English wine production to gain the seal of approval of a
major Champagne name marks an important milestone for the industry. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Overseas investment by the Champenois is not new: Champagne houses
have expanded their businesses and extended their brands by investing in the
New World over the past decades. For example, Roederer Quartet is Champagne
Louis Roederer’s Californian venture; Moët & Chandon has established
Domaine Chandon in Australia and Chandon in California. Rumours have swirled
around the English wine industry of interest from our friends across the
Channel, but, until now, that’s all they have been.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">As well as appreciating the boost that outside investment
provides for our home-grown wines, we should also recognise the financial
realities behind this decision to invest in English vineyards – it’s a
pre-requisite that the investors have to believe in the potential to make a
high quality product which will be worthy of the Champagne Taittinger name. But
it is also true that expanding production via investment in this country is
considerably easier and cheaper than it is back in Champagne. There, a hectare
of land will cost in excess of 1 million Euros, up to 1.8 million Euros for the
very best, Grand Cru, sites. Compare that with an average price here of around
£25,000 (a little over 31,000 Euros). Though we don’t know how much Taittinger
and the other investors paid for their particular patch of Kent apple orchard, and
it is reported to amount to a multi million pound investment over ten years, it
will still be many times cheaper than the equivalent in Champagne.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">In addition, the currently approved land which is authorised
to grow grapes for Champagne is in effect fully planted, so there is just not
the same opportunity to buy vineyard land there in the first place. And when a Champagne
grower wants to sell up, it’s a seller’s market, hence the stratospheric
prices.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">So Taittinger’s investment in old Blighty is in part a
touching act of faith in the long term potential for English wine – but it is
also a hard-headed, prudent way for a growing business to expand in a
financially viable way. As for the wine
itself, it will be a decade or more before we get to taste the fruits of
Domaine Evremond – sparkling wine is a game that requires both deep pockets and
patience.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
Heather Doughertyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11992050309481244224noreply@blogger.com0